im completely new to Mac OS X and i was wondering if any of u guys could tell me some cool shortcut options. for example copy and paste. in windows it was cntrl c. and contrl v. but i guess that doesnt work in mac
View 1 RepliesI know there is a short cut key combo to iTunes Search, but I don't remember what it is.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI'm working though emails on a web based interface. I was wondering, is there a way i can create some sort of temporery short key which will click the 'Next' Key instead of me having to use the mouse everey time to speed things up? the same way that CMD + E opens up Edit.
Info:MacBook Air
The iSight just won't focus properly. If I hold my hand right up close to it it picks it up fine, but just a normal face shot it's so bright you can hardly make out the face?
View 2 Replies View RelatedJust wondering if it's worth getting a machine with 8Gb of RAM over the standard 4Gb for things like video editing, aperture etc. Can most of today's apps even use 8 gigs of memory? I assume the biggest advantage would be for running a virtual windows machine within OSX and things like that.
View 24 Replies View RelatedThe computer boots sometimes, othertimes not at all. When it does turn on it stays on for an unreliable ammount of time before shutting off.
ANybody ever take the case off and blow air over the inside to clear out dust?
I don't know if this has been discussed here but all of a sudden my iMac, running Snow Leopard, 10.6.1) keeps waking up all on it's own. I believe this started after the latest update of Java and Super drive firmware (I believe these were the latest updates).
Is there anything I can do short of shutting the computer down.
I have a 24" 2.66 bought in Oct 09 and it is current with updates. No matter what I do it will not stay asleep, even when I manually put in down with the power button it wakes a short time later. Is there no solution to this simple problem I know many experience?
View 4 Replies View RelatedSo I've had this computer for a while and about a year or two ago, it started giving me problems. I would hear a loud short come from the screen and then I would see a quick line appear. It started getting worse as the month went on til the whole thing shorted out on me. Now all it does is turn on and shut right off with a loud and pretty frightful shorting sound and won't try to kick back on til an hour or two later (manually anyways). I did some research online and found out that my flyback transformer on my analog board shorted out due to heat constrictions inside the machine. And when that part shortes out, it take sthe video board along with it, since those two board are conjoined together, and in turn takes the whole system out. The wierd part is when I unplug the video cord and turn it on, their are no problems, only that My screen is still off, so it's like flying a plane with no instruments. I heard there is a way to replace the inside parts of the iMac and place a LCD screen in there but I'm not sure how that works out and if it will work anyways. Plus I just read that removing the CRT can be very dangerous. Grrr. I Need some advice. I'm a college student and don't have much $$$. If I did, I would have gotten a new MacBook. I wanna bring this mac back to life cause i miss it. Is there anyway I can do that? What would I need to do?
View 1 Replies View RelatedAfter much research on the interweb I've finally realized I've lost the plot, so time to ask the experts....
I've just bought some Kingston KTA-MP800K2/4G RAM from here. The website says it's non-ECC yet the same product from here says it is ECC. This "yes it is/no it isn't" repeated throughout my searches. I bought my Mac with 4x1Gb of Apple's RAM which I'm guessing is ECC(?).
These are my questions:
1. Does anyone know what the correct ECC status is for this product (the Kingston website was no use at all!)
2. I'm reading that it is you shouldn't mix ECC types but what are the consequences of doing so?
3. Is there any software tool to run that can check if my installed RAM is ECC or not, or check everything is happy and compatible?
4. Am I being pointlessly paranoid!?
I do a lot of motion graphics and 3d work so it's important to me everything is tuned up and working as smoothly as possible.
There is a bug when it comes to rules in Mail in 10.6.4 and 10.6.5 (and possibly earlier versions of Mail as well).
Here are the steps to reproduce the bug:
1. Make sure you have an IMAP account in Mail.
2. In your IMAP account's Mailbox Behaviors, UNCHECK the box that says "Store draft messages on server". This ensures that your draft messages will be saved locally on your Mac instead of on your IMAP server.
3. Create one new rule that would ALWAYS be true of ANY new message that you would be creating in mail, such as:
"From contains (your email address)"
OR
"Sender is a member of group (name of a group that your own card is a part of)"
Don't create both of those rules... just choose one.
4. The action that the rule should perform is:
"Set Color of text (choose a color)"
Make sure that you're NOT setting a BACKGROUND color, but rather that you're setting a TEXT color.
5. Save the rule.
6. Now, create a new message and start typing.
7. Save the message as a draft once.
8. Notice that the message shows up in your Drafts folder with the text color applied that you set in #4 above. This actually is a small bug right there, because rules shouldn't apply to messages in your drafts folder, but this first bug is not a big deal.
9. Continue editing the message.
10. Save the message as a draft for a 2nd time.
11. This is where the major bug takes place.... after you've saved your draft for the 2nd time. Look in your Drafts folder. Your message has now shown up in the list of Drafts message with the BACKGROUND COLOR of the subject changed to the TEXT COLOR that you set in #4, which makes the message unreadable if you had chosen a dark text color. Even though you specified a TEXT color, Mail incorrectly applied a BACKGROUND color to the message. This is completely annoying if you're working on a bunch of drafts, because you can't even read the names of the drafts that you're working on without individually opening them up.
After some sneaking around in iMovie 11's files, it was rather easy to allow you to use major studio names in iMovie 11 when Apple doesn't allow you to do it. I wrote a blog post about it with how to do it and with pictures. You can find it here [URL]. First you need to locate the TrailerStrings.strings file within iMovie. The location of it is here Applications/iMovie/Contents/Resources/English.lproj/TrailerStrings.strings. Before you open it up change the permissions of that file so it will allow you to save it once your done.
Once you did that open it up in your favorite text editor, don't use Xcode because some reason it won't allow you to save it once your done. Find the line that says "replacementString = "-;". Change the "-" to whatever studio you want to use, I used Universal, so change it to "Universal". Save it and go into iMovie (if you have it open when you edit the file, close iMovie and reopen it to see the change) and it works! If you want to use another studio name you must change it in the file. Note: Don't try to change "-" to "" and remove the dashes, it will crash iMovie because it will be expecting a string to. compare.
It's on the top of my list right now. I tried closing it and restarting it and it still have a high memory count. It's higher then my firefox which has 30 tabs opened. Anyone know of it's designed this way? or I have too many RSS feeds? I only have 5 RSS with 1 Gmail IMAP account on it.
View 7 Replies View RelatedBack in February, I purchased the (at the time) base mode 15" MacBook Pro, which I shouldn't have returned (idiot). I spec whored and went for the Sony VPCF115FM/B, with i7 which has proven to be a catastrophic and horrendous piece of machinery.
It is coming in from its second round of repairs (still will have poor screen, battery life, and dismal 900MHz throttling when on battery). I am looking to get a Mac to replace it, and I've come down to a few options.
1) Get the baseline 13" model with hopefully the new BTS deal.
2) Get the mid line MBP from last generation refurbished for $1529 (2.66, 9600 320GB 4GB).
3. Get the low-end 15" from this gen with the BTS deal (required for me to afford it), and sell the iPod/Printer.
Do I need the power and screen resolution (size doesn't matter to me) or would the cheaper 13" cover me?
I have the Adobe CS6 Master collection and a mid 2012 Mac Pro with 64 GB of RAM, 2 TB disc space and most importantly, 2 3.06Ghz processors with 12 cores total. And yet a 2 minute video will take up to 5 hours to render. It's simple animation. It's regular HD 720p. This is crazy!Â
I noticed that when the file is being rendered the computer will stay at an idle 82% with cpu....well ****. I need that power to get on the rodeo.
Info:
Mac Pro, OS X Mavericks (10.9.2), 2 x 3.06 GHz/12 Core, 64GB RAM DDR3
So my USB KB was looking pretty grungy so got the bright (or not so bright) idea of cleaning it with windex. I sprayed a little on a paper towel and tried to gently clean the grunge off the keys. It is now clean, but the "D" and "E" keys do not work. Its been three days also so I figure if some liquid did spill under the keys they would be dry by now. Is this a good excuse to buy a new imac?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI've been using itunes for a while and it just messed my entire music library up! I've found something that is more Winamp style for me named "Cog". Now my problem is that I want to control it with the F7, F8, F9 keys which are the rewind, play and forward keys, but when pressing any of them it works both on itunes and cog player. How can I disable the Itunes link to it? I want it to control only Cog player.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm using the thin aluminum USB external keyboard and suddenly my 8ik, diagonal of keys stopped working (now I'm using my laptop keyboard). Anyone know if this is typically a sign of a broken keyboard, or a user issue?
View 1 Replies View RelatedStory: I took my mac out of sleep and found that the trackpad was not functioning.After a little time, I decided just to reboot. I hit the power button and then hit restart, but it could not restart because for some reason, Skype was not closing. Finally, I just decided to force restart by holding power button. I turned computer back on, and it was stuck on the gray loading screen. I waited about 20 minutes and then turned it off.
I've reset PRAM, repaired permissions/disk (from Leopard disk). I finally got past the login screen and got on my desktop. When I clicked on the airport on menu bar, I noticed another problem; Airport Card not installed. I rebooted again, reset PRAM, and found I was back in the same situation again; stuck on loading. I checked system profiler and it recognized my airport card, so that is not dead. I decided to finally archive and reinstall OSX. Now I've been stuck on the "about 10 minute" mark for about an hour now. Thinking of just quitting install and trying to reboot again.
I'm using one if the first gen Macbook Pro's and I seem to be experiencing major artefacting and ground just disappearing. I was thinking that it may have something to do with the fact that whenever I play a game(unless it's ancient) the fans rev up to 6000 rpm and the base of the computer becomes way too hot to touch. But I have also heard that it could be something to do with not having up to date drivers though I don't know how to check this or even where to download the correct ones. Oh and by the way, the games I tend to play are mostly games that have come out between about 2-6 years ago though I occasionally play a more recent one like Fallout 3(though for some reason it didn't appear to be so bad on this which I found weird considering I had to play it on the lowest settings in order for it to be at all playable)
View 4 Replies View RelatedI just have a quick question. I'm ordering a Macbook Pro this weekend and saw that one had a little beefier 512 MB of RAM instead of 256 dedicated for the graphics card.
I really hope Starcraft 2 isn't too graphic intensive and that the 256 would be enough to handle it. That's really the only game I plan on buying to play on here.
I've had my brand new 13" MBP with 128GB SSD for a month or so and love it. However in the last day, performance has dropped dramatically while watching video. I was on Hulu watching a high-res show, and about 15 minutes in, it started getting very choppy -- audio was OK, but video performance dropped. I quit, restarted, tried again, same problem immediately. System load was around 2.79. I tried in both Safari and Firefox, no dice. YouTube seems to have dropped now as well (I'm playing a video in another tab now, and again the audio is great but the video is choppy). I'm currently hooked up to a 22" LCD through the DVI output (the laptop itself is closed).
Is this normal? I mean I've got 4GB of RAM and 2.53GHz CPU with a solid-state disk! There should be 0 latency and this dual-core beast should tear through video no problem, and here I am closing off iTunes and other apps to try to spare some CPU (this doesn't work though). I've even switched to standard-res for both hulu and youtube but it's not much better. I am shocked that a brand new 2.53GHz CPU with 4GB can't handle this. I also installed and am now running Hulu Desktop to try to get better performance. The really weird thing is a week ago I was a on a flight chewing through YouTube while on Skype and using Entourage and iTunes all at the same time, and it was blazing fast. Now I'm crawling along like an old 1.6GHz with 512MB RAM. WTF, mate?
I'm using iMac, MacBook Pro, iPhone and iPad, how can set which device to be the major data for iCloud?
View 1 Replies View RelatedTwisted body, slanted keys, loose keys, battery cover, and freese trackpad. Lets see how many members in this forum is suffering from Apple's poor Quality Control in these new Macbooks!
View 24 Replies View RelatedHow do I get my 8,9, 6, plus sign and minus sign to work again on the numeric part of my alu imac keyboard?
View 2 Replies View RelatedNew mac convert, I have had my iMac aluminum keyboard for 3 months and the keys are getting a tiny bit grubby. I am thinking I can turn off, unplug, spray a mild cleaner on a soft cloth and clean it up, but I cannot find a single source anywhere on the web that confirms this is ok. Is there any reason I can't do this?
View 14 Replies View RelatedMy Aluminium IMac keyboard has suddenly begun to miss keys, the E,P,D,C and both the back and spacebar keys are completely dead. I wasn't using it at the time but each key supposedly went one after each other in under thirty minutes, I've checked mouse keys and speech settings as well as removing keys to clean underneath but they weren't sticky to begin with. Sorry for the lack of detail using the onscreen keyboard takes quite a while to type coherently.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm much enjoying my new i7, no dead pixels, no freezing, no screen blinking or other visual problems, etc., but I have a question about the one anomaly I have encountered. The delete key squeaks annoyingly when I hit it half of the time. Is anyone else experiencing this, or have you experienced it with other Macs? Something that goes away as the keyboard breaks in? (I don't want to return it if this will go away or it's something I can address easily on my own but the squeak is pretty annoying.)
View 3 Replies View Relatedon my iMac keyboard the keys straight down in line: "8, i, k, and ," are all inoperative. Everything else perfect. Took keyboard to another iMac and works perfectly. Took to Apple Repair Shop in town and works perfectly. So just on my machine are these 4 keys inop.
View 1 Replies View Relatedimac is acting as if keys on the keyboard are pressed down but they are not. So automatically when I try to type in a browser it will just keep repeating the number 7 or in email it will just keep scrolling down.
Info:
imac, Mac OS X (10.5.6)
