I bought a new harddrive to upgrade my macbook's old hard drive to a new one over the spring break. I tried to unscrew the screw on the black plastic retaining bar, but I unfortunately failed to do so: even worse, the screw is completely stripped now!
Since the screw is so small, I don't think I can use any of the "Easy Out" kind of unscrewing stripped screw tools... or can I? Wouldn't I damage the retaining bar? What should I do?
I was just wondering what is the best screw driver set for removing the screws from the late 2009 macbook pro unibody?
View 10 Replies View RelatedI need to take the back(chassis) off of my mbp 13" mid 2009, I just wanted to know what screwdriver i need to take the back(chassis) off to install more RAM.
Info:
MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.2)
i am trying to disassemble my MacBook pro 2010 as i need to change the top part (which is attached the keyboard) has couple of dints on it. i can get the unibody top part for around $270 , my question is what screwdrivers i need to disassemble MBP unibody 2010 is there a special screw driver for this? , do i just need a screwdriver or any thing else too?
also i was not able to find any good how to video for this .
First off, I am very O.C.D when it comes to my electronics and I constantly worry about my stuff. Over the past month, I have been checking SMART status and benchmarking my hard drive at least once a day. I'm a little worried that my hard drive is dying... Yea, I'm crazy...Regardless of the above, I would like some answers to a few questions..First, how durable are the unibody lower case screws? Do they strip easily? If I purchase the correct size screw driver (phillips #00), what are my risks of damaging the screws, or possibly wearing them out prematurely?Second, how difficult is it to realign the lower case and not cause a "wobble." I have read some people incorrectly screwing in the bottom case and basically bending the lower case, causing the machine to wobble on a flat surface.After reading my manual, Apple clearly indicates that users are permitted to service the hard drive. I'm technologically savvy but my only worries are damaging my $2500 machine...
View 3 Replies View Relatedits wierd, its 60 degrees celsium and 2300rpm fans (without any smc fan manglers) just FRESHLY rebooted, and completely CLEAN install! without anything. odesnt matter if its 10.5 or 10.6.
it used to be 44 degrees and 1800rpm fans! and 40 degrees with 2000rpm fans on 10.5. .
My old hitachi HDD went on the fritz and I obviously don't want to replace the corrupt hard drive with another hitachi HDD. I'm looking for an SSD to install. I don't need a huge drive because my data's in the cloud for storage so I'm looking at the SSD.
I would like to purchase the intel 330 120gb SSD. Here are my basic specs:
MBP late 2008 unibody 2.8ghz processor
4gb ram
NVIDIA 9600
250gb Hitachi 2.5" HDD (this is the original corrupt drive I want to replace)
-How does TRIM work on the mac? Will I have TRIM issues with the intel 330? How do I go about this?
-Has anyone had any 1.5gb negotiation rate issues? How did you resolve them?
-Any other installation issues I should be aware of and workarounds for them?
Info:
MacBook Pro 15" (Late 2008), 2.8ghz processor, 4gb ram, NVIDIA 9600
Does the late 2008 unibody Macbook pro have Sata II or III?I have an Apple branded 256GB SSD and It isnt booting up as fast as I think it could be. I am wondering if my logic board supports sata III because I think the SSD could be Sata II.
Info:
MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.3), SSD 256 GB with 8GB of RAM
The default Cirrus Logic driver for BootCamp outputs at 64dB. It makes no sense why they would put a cap on it since the driver outputs at 74dB in OSX. I have modified the driver and removed the volume cap so it now outputs louder in Windows than OSX!
Volume in Windows Before: 64dB
Volume in Windows After: 80dB
You can get the driver at:
[URL]
(Windows 7/Vista 32+64 Bit Driver)
It should work with any of the following Cirrus Logic chips:
CDB4206
CS4206A
CDB4207
It really helps with YouTube videos that have horrible volume or if you like to have music that fills the whole house.
Let me know if you want the XP driver with the volume uncapped so I can work on it as well.
I've noticed recently that occasionally my screen will intermittently flicker.
It doesn't seem to be tied to anything specific. Just a random black screen flash.
I did some google searches, but could not find anything that was exactly my issue. I have a 2008 MBP unibody. If the MBP is on battery only and I close the lid, the notebook shuts down completely. This is even when the battery is fully charged. However if while plugged in and I do the same, the computer "sleeps" as advertised. I have reset both the SMC and PRAM to no avail. The main thing that bothers me is it seems like when this happens on battery, its almost as if the computer is getting a hard shut down. The machine acts as if the battery was pulled while the lid was closed and this is obviously not good for the hardware or sofware.
Info:
MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.4)
I recently purchased a Late 2008 Unibody MacBook. I am thrilled! Yet I seem to be having the same charging issue MANY other people have had and have still not found a solution. Basically, as with everyone else, when I connected the Magsafe connector, it stays on finishing charge as if stuck there. I have left it for 2 full days and nights now with no luck. I have calibrated the battery and it is still doing it. The battery only shows 60 cycles and it's health it at 80%. I've even reset the SMC with no avail.
Info:
MacBook, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
I Have an October 2008 Macbook Unibody 13.3 and after installing Lion the CPU fan stays permanently on and the battery drains in 2 hours. What can I do to fix this?
Info:
MacBook (13-inch Aluminum Late 2008), Mac OS X (10.7.3)
I did this for the Macbook Pro's a while back, but I'm a Macbook guy now. There are a few other threads with profiles but it's no good if you use a profile made from a different panel than what you have. I'm just trying to consolidate things here.
I will try to keep this post current; please only submit profiles created from hardware, not those done by human eye (meatware?) And be sure to say which panel the profile is for. Thanks to everyone for contributing and improving the Macbook experience!
How to determine your panel type/code
How to install and use color profiles
Basic tests to determine if a profile is a good fit:
Black level
White level
Gamma
9C89 (LG)
See attachment (rezonat0r-9c89.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma, Native and 6500K whitepoint. I recommend using the Native whitepoint.See attachment (rezonat0r-9c89-alt.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma, Native whitepoint. This is an alternate profile made from another Macbook with the LG panel. It is similar to the previous but slightly darkerjessica's profileSpyder2 Pro. 2.2 Gamma. Native whitepoint (I think - not confirmed)
9C8C (AU Optronics)
See attachment (rezonat0r-9c8c.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma. I only did a calibration at native whitepoint (honestly, if you really need 6500K then you won't be using a Macbook screen, or any laptop screen for that matter)
9C8A
See attachment (rezonat0r-9c8a.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma. Native whitepoint.
I bought an oldish MacBook 13' Unibody (late 2008) and when I got it one of the first things I did was to install Mac OSX Lion.
Everything was working fine, until I applied an update that made the trackpad stop working (it only accepts clicks, no touch is recognized).
This is the "Trackpad Firmware Update" from the automatic updates.
When starting this firmware update it appears a window with a status message, cancel and Update buttons. After clicking the update button, it starts installing, appears to complete, status changes to "Finishing...", and Update button comes back active at some point.
After that I have tried (unsuccessfully):downloading and installing the update directly from Apple Support [URL] thing, but using the 'root' accountleaving the computer on overnight to see if actually "finished" the processReset PRAM PVRAM - [URL] - [URL] palm pressing over 30 seconds on the trackpad (read this on another thread...?)
Info:
MacBook, Mac OS X (10.7.4), MacBook 13 Unibody (late 2008)
Ive been looking for one, but each one i find i find atleast one comment saying that its bad with the macbook. So i would just like to know a good hard drive that isnt gonna have problems with my mb, oh yeah and a 500 gb one.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI just got a Early 2011 Macbook Pro 15" i7 that has a broken scissor for the "x" key (I still have the black "x" key itself. Would the scissors from an late 2007 Macbook Pro 15" be compatible (I've got an old dead keyboard for it that had coffee spilled on it)?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI was trying to do a memory upgrade the other day, and tried to take the wrong screw off. I went to try to screw it out, but the screw stripped. How can I get this thing removed and replace it with a new one? Or should I just take it to the local genius bar?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a mid-2006 Macbook and have never tried to do any tinkering on the inside except for installing some RAM. Whenever I had any trouble in the past, I took the machine into the Apple Store. Now that my Applecare warranty is up, I figured that I can crack it open to do some repairs regarding my fan without voiding my warranty. Alas, it seems that someone on Apple's end stripped a screw / put it in improperly. Now, I cannot get it out. The screw in question is the center screw in this picture (from iFixit, not my Macbook): All other screws in the tear down came out easily except for this one. Dammit. What should I do? It is too late to point fingers at Apple because I have no proof that I wasn't the numbskill who did this. It is just such a small screw... I'd just like to remove it somehow
View 14 Replies View RelatedSorta found this forum out of sheer luck but it looks like a good place to kill a couple of years off my life
Im looking for a replacement screw for the left side of a MBP A1150, [URL] sells a screw kit for around 50bucks but all I need is 1 screw and wondering if their is a cheaper alternative
Pic is attached along with the void that will never be complete
Just bought a new MacBook Pro yesterday and I'm having trouble getting Time Machine to work with my NAS (WD My Book World Edition which supposedly supports Time Machine after their last firmware update). Time Machine sees it and starts writing to it but then stops recognizing the external NAS drive even though it's still connected to the network and I can access it and its files through the Finder.
So I did some Googling and came across this article and this command line...
Does anyone have any information/experience with the shells for your MBP? I had thought about getting one for my MBP but I have read issues of the cases scratching the laptop as well as the plastic clips holding the case snapping off after a month or two. Seeing as how most of these cases are around $40-$50, I just wanted to see if this was a good idea or if I should just say screw it and get a sleeve instead.
View 4 Replies View RelatedThe screws that hold the battery in place (Triwing Ones) One of them is stripped on my MBP. I ordered some new ones and they should be arriving next week. Does anyone have an idea how to get the stripped one out? I have tried pliers but they don't seem to grip the screw to be able to turn it. This is the screw I mean.
View 14 Replies View RelatedI'm wondering if there are any products out there can secure my MacBook Pro by using one or two of the screw holes on either side of the DVI port.
I bought a Kensington MicroSaver keyed lock even though MacBook Pro users said it didn't work. I'm once again confirming that... The Kensington lock port on the MB and MBP are totally useless. There are lots of products of this nature out there for VGA/serial ports, but I have found nothing for DVI.
This is the only product I found that does what I want, but it isn't available for sale anywhere:
[URL]
[URL]
I have a refurbished macBook Pro and everything was working fine (it's about 9 months old). So everything was fine till suddenly the right fan started making these horrible noises. Kinda like a motor boat along with with ticking clanking sounds. It comes and goes: also Istat shows that the max RPM is 3000 or so.
Thinking something was stuck in the fan I figured i'd take the back cover off to take a look, and now I have stripped one of the outer screws holding the back cover. Now i'm worried my warranty is void, even though the fan issue was not my fault but the stripped screw is.
I plan on going to the apple store soon to see what they say but I was curious as to what you guys think first. Will the apple store fix the screw and then replace that fan?
I have a brand new 15" i7 Macbook Pro that I bought from the Apple store over 14 days ago. I opened it up to put in an SSD drive and optibay. Now, this was my first time opening up a unibody, but I've opened up many notebook computers and older style Macbook Pros before, so I'm not a newbie.
However, putting things back together I ran into a problem. One of the screws that secures the metal plate on the bottom of the machine will not catch in it's hole, and therefore does not stay in. I swear I did nothing to strip this screw or the hole it goes into. When I screw the screw into the hole with the case off, it smoothly sets and seems to be fine. However, when the metal plate is put on and the screw is put threw it, it's like the screw is not long enough to reach the threaded part of the hole
Yes, I'm positive it's the right screw. The hole I'm talking about is along the back side of the computer, towards the hinges, and is the only one of the 4 screws that is the shorter style screw (vs the long ones that occupy the other three holes).
I'm at a loss for what to do. I'm thinking about putting all the stock stuff in place and taking it into the apple store for help at this point.
Recently I up/downgraded from a 2010 17" Macbook Pro to a 2011 15" Macbook Pro. I had previously swapped the old hard drive in the 17" to an SSD using the OWC data doubler kit. Now that I moved on to the 15", I wanted to move my SSD over to the new Macbook Pro.
During the process opening the new MacBook and unscrewing a two of the screws around the optical drive, both of the screws became stripped on the module the covers the optical drive. I have to be honest and say that they are pretty badly striped at this point. I've read a handful of articles online with many different possible solutions on removing the stripped screw, but none of which seem to work nor do I want to cause any further or possible permanent damage, I do have AppleCare on the machine, but I wasn't sure if modifications and upgrades such as this where covered.
Info:
MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
The last two Apple software updates seemed to have screwed up my computer. After downloading and installing the last one (which included an update to iTunes), I could not turn on iTunes - it just made my computer freeze up.I could not shut it down the regular way.So I pressed the power button for 5 seconds, which turned the computer off finally. Then let it sit for 30 seconds. And when I went to turn it on - the computer got to the gray screen and just hung there.I finally had to press the power button for 5 seconds to shut it down so I could hook up my external hard drives and boot from there.Tried to see if I could boot from the internal HD it froze again. Tried to run Disk Utility, which recongized the hard drive under the name I gave it and it was mounted. After running Disk Utility, the internal drive is no longer showing up on my desktop. It does show up in Disk Utility and in Drive Genius but will not mount.I should also mention that my keyboard and trackpad stopped working after the last update.I have been using an auxiliary keyboard and trackball for years, and have no problem with them now.
Info:
Mac OS X (10.6.4)
Does anyone know what the screw size is for the bottom case screws and the 2 hard drive bracket screws are?
I need to replace some
Anyone know where I can get these screws?
Is it supposed to snap in as well as screw in when putting it back onto the computer? When I upgraded my HDD I thought I remembered seeing in a tutorial video that the back panel was supposed to snap shut before screwing it in. Am I missing something or am I totally wong here?
View 4 Replies View Related