My girlfriend's MacBook has some deep scratches on the bottom that a polish kit would not fix. I wanted to buy a new bottom cover and replace it for her. I have found quite a few on eBay, but I am not sure on which model will fit. She has the new white NVIDIA MacBook. I assume that because the motherboard is different, would she need a case specific for the NVIDIA model, or will an older Core 2 Duo case work all the same?
I was woundering if anyone know where i can buy some screws for the bottom of my macbook pro i7 15". I lost one screw when replacing HD and memory. Everywhere I see online wants to sell whole macbook pro screw sets. I only need 1 or maybe anther for a backup. Don't want to spend 50bucks on a set of screws just to use 1.
I am wondering if anyone knows what Apple charges to have the bottom plate of the MacBook Pro replaced. When I was at a store, an employee told me that it "might cost, like, uh, forty bucks," in a way that made me think he was just pulling that price out of his you-know-what. After searching eBay for that part and finding no auctions for less than $100, I assumed that Apple would charge something more like that.
It's really irritating that in order to replace two of my footpads, I must replace the whole bottom plate of the body. Apple is really trying to get people to buy the service plan, and then a new laptop when that runs out. Great for the environment. The whole unrepairable Retina Display MacBook debacle is just more proof of that.
On the bottom of my black MacBook, there is a circle that you use to loosen the battery. Today it fell off, so now the silver underneath part is exposed. I keep trying to put the cover back on but it keeps falling out. How do i get it to stay?
I am needing to replace the bottom case of my late 2006 MBP. It has a large dent in it that is causing some problems. My question is, do I need to get the exact part number listed on the bottom of my laptop (A1211) or can I get a bottom from any pre-unibody MBP i.e. A1260? Also, has anyone ever replaced this part? How difficult is it? I have experience working on laptops, I've just never taken a mac this much apart.
I went through all the steps to change the optical drive on an old 500 MHz iBook G3, but am unable to attach the bottom case. The problem is the two long (20mm) screws near the back of the computer -- each apparently has to insert into something that looks like a gold-colored nut with serrated edges, like gears, otherwise the screws just rotate in place and don't "lock up." I'll attach a picture, but my only digital camera until I borrow one from a friend is my cell phone, so the pic won't be too good. The gold pieces fell out during the disassembly process and I can't figure out where they now go.
The cover flow in safari only displays bottom half of the window, see the picture below, However, those pages that can not be previewed show in full height of the window:
I have a 2005 G5 and my Bottom bay HD wires are busted. I need to obviously buy new ones but the problem is I can't figure out where the wires go, I can find the smaller wire, but not the bigger power wire (i think its the power). When I open up the G5 it looks like the big wire goes behind the board (and I really dont want to take the whole thing apart!). Does anyone have a picture explaining where all the wires go in a 2005 G5. I have goggled it, but just internal pics and simple explanations come up, I am looking for something more complicated so I know where the bottom bay wires go to.If anyone has switched out the wires before please let me know, cause this is nuts. They make everything else in the G5 easy to do but this. ( This all happened because I shipped it and the wires snapped on my bottom drive)
picked up a unibody last Saturday night, and opened the battery cover tonight. The latch was opened with little resistance, but now won't close. The latch edge sits about 1/8" up, and I can't find anything which would seem to prevent it from closing.
Anyone else had a troublesome battery latch, and how did you resolve it?
I just bought a clear speck case for the MBA. I noticed that the case weighs a little bit and when the top cover is on, at a certain angle, it closes the MBA due to the sheer weight.
Over time, will this loosen the hinge?
On another point, how the **** do you get the top cover off easily? I scratched the cover with a credit card the first time around! The thing is almost impossible to pry off!
Cause heat problems? I am using my MBP with the cover closed for space constraints , connected to an external display along with keyboard and the mouse is BT.Over all am I looking at causing damage if I do this for long term.I'm contemplating selling it and downsizing to a Mini.
I was wondering it it was possible to buy a LED display off eBay, and replace it with my LCD panel on my current Macbook (late 2006 C2D 2.0). There is nothing wrong the LCD, I am just curious as of whether or not it is possible.
I have had multiple Apple laptops in the past and never gotten (nor seen the need for) AppleCare. Both Pismo, CS1400 and MBP first gen. My experience is that any weak point will show up during the first year and I have sent in at least one to Apple and they have fixed it under original warranty during first year, no problem. Since battery seems to be the weak link I was planning on getting AppleCare for my new MBA. However if that is not the covered by AppleCare then I am looking for some pointers/reason why I should even consider AppleCare for my MBA.
I've read up on Speck brand plastic covers for the MBP line. Unfortunately, many claim the case adds to the aluminum case being scratched than without.Unless you've had good experiences, what other brands of case protectors exist, that are worthy of purchase?
Are your aluminum MBP cover's flexible? By cover, I mean the lid of the laptop. Mine is flexible where the apple logo is. Even if I press down gently around that area. Is this a fault in my MBP or is this normal in everyone else's ?
i am using one of these colored keyboard covers.but my friend told me that this cover will make my macbook getting hot because it stops air from getting out . is that real ?and where is the real cooling spots on the white macbook (2009 and later )
Info: MacBook (13-inch Mid 2010), Mac OS X (10.6.8)
My disc drive isn't working at all - it doesn't even accept the disc or make a noise to accpet it/eject it. It doesn't make any noise when I click the eject button or do anything.
I had a repair done to my mac a few weeks ago when the graphics card stopped working, I've only just attempted to put a disc in since - I don't know if the repair could have effected it at all.
I recently took apart my macbook to see if I could get my wifi antenna nudged to work better. It does seem to be fixed, but when I put the laptop back together the inverter cable shorted to the frame, smelled like burning electronics and stopped working. However, I put a new inverter in and it is not fixed. I was careful to note that the second inverter did not create any smell, but the screen did not even light up for a second. The LCD IS still working, as I can see everything on the screen if I shine a light on it. Except for no backlight, the computer works fine. What could possibly be wrong, and what are my options?
I am trying to upgrade my hard drive on one of the new MacBook Pros. MBP ships with an ATA hard drive but on NewEgg all the larger hard drives (400 - 500 gigs) are SATA. Am I limited to only ATA hard drives or will these SATA work as well?
My son broke the LCD screen on our older Macbook. Only the upper screen is visible. It looks like a LCD screen can be purchased for about $100 and is quite difficult to install. Can I ask the forum's opinion if it is worth replacing this screen? He will be entering college in the Fall and will need a PC. It's the only mac that runs on 10.6 instead of 10.7.
I have a base level 1st Gen Unibody 15" Macbook Pro. It has the removable battery and I bought it refurbished online because it was way cheaper. I do have Applecare. A few weeks ago it began randomly turning off. Like I will be doing stuff, have plenty of battery left according to both the software meter and the green lights on the side, then it will click, the screen will turn black and I won't be able to turn it back on.