My ibook has been working great and all of a sudden I have no display. It boots up fine, the eject button works, I can hear the volume if I turn it up or down. This is my second ibook and I really need this one to work! Its only 4 years old 800mhz,256,30GB. There are no apple repair places anywhere (other than the apple store) around here, so I'm not sure if there's something that I can do on my own?
View 4 RepliesI have a dead/dying old G4 iBook (logic board failure) and was wondering whether I can remove the internal drive and mount it in an external case, and use it as an external USB or Firewire drive? The drive has some valuable data on it which I'd like to keep, and the iBook only boots for a few minutes each time (if I'm lucky).Is it just a matter of opening it up, taking the drive out, and taking it along to a computer shop who should be able to kit me out?
View 3 Replies View RelatedDEFAULT CATCH!, code=300 at SRR0: 5555554 SRR1: 40003030
typing 'mac-boot' gets me to a white screen with black lines all down it. It just hangs there.
I tried zapping the PRAM but it didn't help. The hard drive has been making those *click click* 'I'm about to die' sounds for a while. I'm assuming its the hard disk . I have another iBook with a failed logic board I can take the HD out of but in case its not I don't want to take it apart just yet.
I have an iBook G4 which was working fine. A week ago my little sister used the laptop and now I have the following problem:
a) The laptop boots because I get the boot chime, but the screen keeps black.
b) I connected an external monitor to check if the problem was the laptop monitor. When I start the computer, I get a gray screen (in the external monitor), but no apple icon () and cannot pass from this gray screen.
c) I noticed that the caps lock light was not turning on, so I accessed the open firmware (keeping hold the power button - getting a weird chime and a light flashing near the case button - power chime ) and I got the open firmware screen (still in the external monitor) and I noticed that the keyboard was not working also! I connected an external keyboard (usb) and I am able to type.
I know I won't be able to use it as a normal computer because of this weird problem. I was thinking to keep it as a "desktop" with the external monitor and the external keyboard. My questions in this case are:
a) Is it there any way I can boot from cd from open firmware? (I cannot do the "keep the 'C' key hold during start up" because my laptop keyboard does not work.
b) Because I get the open firmware console, could this be a OS problem? What I mean is that if I reinstall the OS, could I at least keep using this computer as a desktop?
well where do i begin ?? basicly i purchased a ibook g4 14" 1.33ghz that had its harddrive upgraded by a apple service provider. About two weeks after this upgrade took place the harddrive started playing up and the machine would not see the boot volume on the drive when restarted or every now and then the machine would freeze after some time of use, a few hours maybe. i ran apple hardware test and it came back clean after zapping the pram and disk warrioring the drive it fixed this for a day then it started again oh well.
so i sent it back to the service provider who said yep its the hadrdrive goody !!! oh NO he calls back the next day and says the new harddrive is not reconized and that they tried a new ribbon cable WTF when i sent it in the machine saw the harddrive via target disk mode all the time it just didnt see the boot volume.
NOW his saying its the logicboard **** sake !!! so my question could this machines logicboard be fried when it was fine before i sent it in , i mean the ide controller was fine i checked it and now im faced with a brick !!!what do i do ????
I have a white macbook that has been starting to act a little slow. I put avast on it and found some old files that were windows files received in emails that had never been deleted (i.e. so these weren't issues and so viruses were not the problem).
I did a repair disk permissions and it gave the usual long list of java changes. I did a verify disk, and it found errors. So I put the CD that came with the macbook into the drive in order to start from it and run disk utility.
The macbook will not boot from the cd. The drive is fine and the computer boots up fine using the HDD. I did try running the hardware test but it said the version is not compatible (maybe these aren't the disks that came with the macbook??) So I booted up normally and tried even to run disk utility from the CD and it said it was the wrong version as well.
I researched the internet and saw target disk mode but this old white macbook doesn't have a firewire port. So I just hooked up a carbon copy clone of my desktop from a USB harddrive and was able to boot from that and run disk utility to fix the errors. So the disk errors are fixed and disk verify shows no errors.
However, my only outstanding issue is that I cannot boot from the CD drive. If I'm on the road and don't have the usb drive and have trouble with regular boot I will not be able to boot until I get home. I have upgraded the OS since I purchased the macbook but only to 10.6. Do I need a 10.6 startup CD as opposed to the one that originally came with the mac?
I have a G3 iBook and just the other day the display stopped working. There were no signs of the display going bad, it's just went. Am I able to boot the iBook via Target Disk Mode on my PowerBook and run the iBook Hardware Test CD on it? Also, can I reboot my PowerBook and choose the iBook as the startup volume?
I know how to do Target Disk Mode but the latter I'm not sure about.
So as the title explains, since last Friday I've been trying to figure out why my Macbook Pro started getting stuck on the boot screen with the spinning gear. Sometimes a progress bar appear and it fills like 1/20th of the way and goes back to the spinning gear. However, if I boot into Windows 7, it works fine. I tried using the Snow Leopard install disk to get into disk utility and it won't even boot from cd (For reference, I tried the hold-c command to boot into the cd). The I tried resetting the PRAM, the SMC reset and the fsk thing, no bananas. I have this Macbook Pro since June 2009. I'm shot of ideas, if you guys have no idea what's wrong its a call to Apple, or a meeting with a "Genius" ugh.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have an ibook 500 mhz with a mini VGA port and I want to hook it up to an apple 17in studio display with ADC. How can I go about doing this?
View 5 Replies View RelatedMy daughter has an iBook G4 which she loves and uses daily for school. When she turned it on today it would power up but no display. The CAP Lock key will light up. I have reset the PRAM and PMU but no luck.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI got an 1.33 Ghz G4 iBook logic board, given to me as a working part. However, nothing else that goes along. I do have all the basic cabling such as speaker and power button, flex cables and such. Also got myself a new external AC power adapter. Now, I do not intend to use this as a laptop, thus, I will not be looking for a battery, just AC use. However, there's a big problem, I've no screen. I know there's this software hack that allows to connect an external display, in order to have a "mirroring" desktop.
I suppose that'd be achievable if I had the original screen to actually do the hack, but I don't have it. So, is there a way that I can just directly connect an external display and completely forget about the internal one? One more thing, suppose I can't do what I have in mind, if I actually found and borrowed an internal display, would I be alright if after the hack I give the internal display back to it's owner and continue with the external?
My homeroom teacher's 14 inch G3 iBook's display has started displaying everything grainy. There are little dots everywhere on the display, and it is annoying. The head IT person at school is stumped. I am not sure of the exact version of OS X, if it might be a software issue. Could it be a sign of logic board failure?
View 14 Replies View RelatedI am creating a new image for some old iBooks that will be used in a school. To run a specific program I need to have OS 9.2 installed because it won't work any other way(even through the simulator). I have OS 10.2 installed on the master image iBook computer and have installed OS 9.2 through the restore disks. I can load up to both OS X and OS 9.2 but OS 9.2 does not take up the entire screen. It's contained within a small box in the middle of the screen.
View 1 Replies View RelatedImportant: Includes wide width connector (approximately 1.5 inches wide). This display will not work with iBook G4s with a narrow display data cable connector. The correct LCD for iBooks with a narrow width connector can be found here.
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I have a iBook G4 with a broken backlight. The iBook was custom painted Maroon (Only the back part of display and around the keyboard), and I don't like it. Will an iBook G3 12" display work on the G4?
View 6 Replies View RelatedA friend gave me one of these, said he didn't test it. i tested it but have observed the following: ring on PSU plug illuminates fine, was orange but now greed thus battery charges ok. battery button works too, pressing that initially showed 1 dot, now shows 4. charge ok and accepted. pressing the power button though, i hear the fan spin for 1 sec, the disk and the cd drive click in, but no chime and nothing on the display. no response nothing, a hard reset (hold power) turns it off. I did the PMU reset, and the pmu did do a reset, but nothing. I also did the PRAM, and again nothing. I am suspecting a faulty logic board, I hope i can get this going as aesthetically it's in good condition. For the info it appears to be an iBook G3 model A1007, If you need any more info then give me a shout.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have an iBook G4 which I want to use with a widescreen external display. I am not interested in gaming or doing anything fancy just surfing the web and working on documents and maybe looking at movies. I already have a hack that enables me to use a regular display which doesn't mirror the iBook screen. I just wondered whether I would encounter problems using a wide screen display and what the maximum resolution I should look for.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a 14'' iBook and recently bought an LG 19'' Widescreen monitor. I am testing a Dell 17'' on it right now before I open the LG one, but my problem is that the same screen shows on my ibook and the external. This isn't what I want. I have read you are supposed to be able to close the laptop and then it shifts to the external display but this is not working for me.
This is my goal:
Use my bluetooth keyboard full time
Have my ibook closed at all times
Have my external as my main display
How do I make this work?
Is it possible to connect my iBook G4 to my Apple 20" Cinima display without buying a VGA to DVI converter?
If not why?
If so how?
I have an old Dell CRT I'm using currently with my iBook and I want to know how I can just use the display and close the iBook when at my desk without the computer sleeping. Currently if I try waking the computer with the keyboard or mouse, it wakes up for about five seconds before going back to sleep. Is there any way around this or do i just have to keep the iBook Open?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to get an accurate identification of the iBook white G/3 700 MHz with 12in display we just acquired. There seems to be a couple of very similar models. The Apple Support article is unclear [URL]as to which one we have. One model is an early 2002 release (M8602LL/A), the other a late 2002 release (M8860LL/A).
View 2 Replies View Relatedalso posted on apple discussion forums. My wife has a 12" ibook g4 1.33 mhz. It has been exhibiting the following symptoms with increasing frequency:
1) the display will completely dim to the lowest setting or cycle between bright and dim, as if pressing f1 and/or f2 repeatedly
2) some of whatever she was typing or working on at the time will be deleted
3) a string of repeated characters (usually q1aq1aq1a) will appear in her typing
4) often the desktop is brought to the front as if pressing f11 in expose
5) other than the problems described, the computer continues to work normally
6) problems are almost always related to moving the hinge position, but sometimes happen randomly, with no movement at all
7) it will sometimes occur many times a day, then not at all for several days
8) it seems to happen more often when the computer is not on a hard surface, but this may just be my imagination or some random bad luck
I am at a loss as to what the problem may be. I was thinking it might be the display cable because of the link to hinge position, but that wouldn't account for the random typing. Then I thought it was the motherboard, but the computer seems to work ok other than this. I did realize the other day that most of the problems are things on the left hand edge of the keyboard (display brightness, the q1a pattern), but this doesn't account for the deleted typing and the mysterious f11 thing. Does anybody have any thoughts? Am I looking at a display cable (hopefully this is it - I have no problems with disassembling/reassembling things)? Or is it the motherboard (probably means it would be more economical to get a new machine)? Or is it something else?
I took apart my IMac G3 today (2 times once to put in a new hard drive,and another forgetting to put a jumper inside) once I sealed it back up and put the powercable in, nothing, no chime, no noises, no light. I've took it apart another 3 times now looking for loose connections
but there all in.
I recently bought a 15" powerbook and when you turn it on it shows the apple logo (grey screen) then when booting into Tiger, it shows a black screen with white text detailing drivers and things that are being loaded. Is there any way of switching off this black screen booting? I have even tried swapping harddrives and reinstalling Tiger but it still does it, so im guessing it has nothing to do with the Tiger installation / Harddisk.
View 1 Replies View RelatedUpon start up, I hear the chime, see the grey Apple load screen, but then after it just reaches the blue screen and stops. Cannot reach login screen, unless in safe mode.Steps I've tried:
-Reinstall tiger (erase and install)
-Replace CMOS battery (time now works correctly)
-Run Apple Hardware Test (no errors)
It's a PowerBook G4, 15" model A1046, and this is what's going on.
Powers on, checks combo drive, gongs, no flickering or lighting on screen, period.
Tried a PRAM reset several times but it NEVER gongs a second time. I tried booting to Open Firmware and typing mac-boot, blind, but nothing. The keyboard clearly works, as the caps lock light works.
The hard drive spins up, the fans run at normal speeds, so everything else is clearly functional.
I recently got a cheap used 12 1.33 PB, that has worked great for a couple of months.Yesterday the PB shut off totally while in sleep mode. I couldn't power it back up at first, but was able to after I reset the PMU, and plugged the power cord in. The computer worked fine after that for the rest of the day.This morning, I noticed the PB shut off again during sleep mode. But this time, I can no longer boot it up. The PB chimes, but then nothing comes onscreen, and there's no hard drive activity (so I'm pretty sure its not the screen.)
View 3 Replies View RelatedCertain websites I try to access are unable to display. They give me the "standard" cannot connect to the server error. [URL]. Other computers in the house operating on the same wireless connection can access these sites fine... so I think something is mis-configured on my machine somehow. I contacted my IP and they said everything is fine. My computer is a 24in. iMac 2.8GHz Intel Core Duo running Mac OS X 10.5.6
View 2 Replies View RelatedMy brother's iBook G4 (800Mhz, First Rev) has completely splattered itself and we're getting a new Macbook for him under insurance. My iBook G3 (White, 900Mhz G3..the last G3 Rev of the iBook) has a failing hard drive.
Now, could I swap out those two drives, at least to recover stuff? And is there a specific method of opening up the iBook G4 so that I don't break stuff (I've already messed with my G3..and ended up with a dozen extra screws ^_^
Mainly the aim is to salvage the hard drive and swap them out; replacing my faulty iBook G3 one with the iBook G4 one which is perfectly fine.
So I had a recently purchased 17" BTO with the 7200RPM drive that worked great, but with one issue - the display would have horizontal scan lines and black out occasionally. So I called up Apple and eventually managed to get a cross-ship set up(they let me hold on to my current unit, charge my credit card and send me a second brand new 17" unit as a replacement,and then refund me for the second 17" after I send back the defective unit).
Anyway, the replacement unit looks great, but with one issue - there's a very small light dent on the bottom panel(maybe about the size of a dime). I was annoyed but don't think this is worth having to exchange, since I could probably just unscrew the panel and pop it back into place.
However, what really got to me was the fact that my replacement unit was slightly louder than my original - my original is so silent that I can't even tell it's on. However, with my replacement unit, I can hear the hard drive spinning, which is slightly annoying.
Anyway, I proceeded to restore from a time machine backup and test my replacement unit when I noticed that it would occasionally get the hard drive click + beep + freeze issue that many others who have the 7200 RPM drive seem to be facing. It's extremely annoying, and more importantly I miss the complete silence of my older unit.
My question is, while I'm still in possession of both units(which both have the exact same specs, same 7200 RPM drive, etc.), should I simply just open both up and take the silent(good) hard drive from my old unit and put it into my new one?
The click+beep freeze issue is really pissing me off, and my old unit didn't suffer from it - it's just this replacement one(doesn't make any sense).Anyway, would notice if I switched the hard drive? Would I get screwed somehow? Do they keep track of the hard drive serials or something?
I really don't want to go through the pain of sending this back, especially considering that a LOT of people are suffering from this issue, and I don't want to end up with another defective drive. I'm sick and tired of games and just want a computer that WORKS.
