Mac Pro :: Unable To Detect Original Stock RAM Now?
May 14, 2008
I recently bought two 2GB sticks of OWC 800 MHz ram for my Mac Pro.
My Mac Pro originally had two 1GB sticks, which worked fine, I just wanted more.
It seems that they don't work together. I've tried every possibly configuration. Is it the case that they just aren't going to work together because they are different sizes?
Right now, I have the two 2GB sticks in A1 and A2. And the stock 1GB sticks in B1 and B2. A1 and A2 gets detected, but B1 and B2 doesn't.
my old stock HD capacity is so small. and i want to upgrade/swtich to new 3TB ATA hard drive? it's possible?no issue with intel mac pro 2008? stock HD located in BAY#1 can i upgrade with new high capacity one? how to upgrade? step by step? do i have to move all content frm stock HD to new HD? and how? do i have to upgrade install new HD with disc utility ? how to change?
I have a Macbook and I just bought an iPhone 3G and it seems my mac is totally not responding to my iPhone.I have the latest updates but to no avail.I also have also just loaded intego virusbarrier 5. I heard that it is interfering with the sync of both devices. So how do resolve this problem without having to erase and re-install my harddisk
My pro only sees my Airport and does not detect other wireless networks even there are some around- my other macs detect 7 n all-- note I have win7 with bootcamp and does the same thing?
Info: MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.6.8), my laptop and sisters Imac see 7
I have a macbook with leopard osx and use it frequently for presentations and so on. I have connected it to several monitors and projectors a hundred times and it has worked fine since last night.
Last night, I have connected my mac to a monitor with vga cable but it did not detect it and instead a constantly flickering blue screen came up and never went. I am sure the cables are fine.
I m new to Mac application. The most headache part is i m unable to import my photos from iPhone 3Gs into iPhoto. Why does this happen? Is the setting of Mac itself or problem with my iPhone?
I have went to Mac shop for assistant, i have spent 2 hours there but the assistant was unable to solve the problem as well.
I'm using a mini display-port to hdmi lead and it worked once. I unplugged the hdmi cable when it was still connected to the mac and now it wont find it.
Created vuescan for my scanner, since microtek stopped making drivers. Can't figure out the problem. I can't find answers anywhere online, and I need this scanner working yesterday. I got it to work on my laptop since that's still running 10.7.3, but that's no practical. Did 10.7.4 upgrade do that screwed this all up?
recently the harddisk of my macbook pro crashed and I had it replaced with a SSD thinking I could use the old harddisk as an external but now it seems like the crashed harddisk cannot be detected by my macbook. What should I do?
I just got a new mac pro dual quad core to replace my single dual core for work. Im trying to pull my Nividi Quadro 4500 out of my old machine that i had installed by apple in to my new machine. i get it all hoked in right but when i turn on my new machine it dosnt detect the display. Any suggestions?
I have two extra buttons on my logitech mouse: a button on the side and the scroll wheel button. I set up the logitech control center and set commands for those buttons, but nothing happens when i press them. Anyone know how to fix this?
The macbook 2008 model is unable to detect iPod or iPad of 4th Generation.I am unable to upgrade the OS software and unable to install any new software. (.dmg)
Info: MacBook, Mac OS X (10.6.5), Unable to recongise the ipod
I installed 2 ne w Optical drives in a 2008 3,1 MacPro Quadcore.After installation and booting up, the system profiler failed to show ANY optical drives and I was unabel to open/eject the drives naturally. I then unplugged the bottom one and rebooted and the top drive (still plugged in ) worked. I then shut down and unplugged the top drive and plugged in the bottom drive - rebooted and now the BOTTOM drive is recognized. When BOTH drives are plugged in , the system fails to show either of them.So when individually plugged in it's fine but when bith are plugged in neither of the drives are detected or operate.
I just purchased my new macbook pro and I wanted to know if it was possible to use the laptop as a router so that my PS3 could connect through it. I followed the steps someone else mentioned:
(1) Open System Preferences on your MacBook Pro, and open "Sharing"
(2) On the left column, click Internet Sharing and check the box
(3) Use the drop-down menu to select Ethernet in "Share your connection from..."
(4) Check the box next to Airport in the section "To computers using..."
(5) Close System Preferences and open the Airport menu from your Toolbar (top)
(6) Click "Create Network", add a name to your Computer-to-Computer network
(7) Leave the Channel as Automatic, add a password if you require (make sure your PS3 is compatible with your chosen level of security), click Ok.
(8) Connect an ethernet cable between your broadband modem and MacBook Pro
(9) Turn on your PS3 and perform your usual setup when connecting to a wireless network
I have an Ipod, and it did detect the new connection that was setup; however, my PS3 and my Windows Mobile phone did not detect it. Is there a reason for this? Do only Apple devices identify this connection?
New MacBook rocks and in cables to hook it up to my Sanyo HDTV 1080p. I plug in the HDMI cable and the picture comes on.
However, every once in awhile the screen goes black and it says "Signal Not Found." Also, every time I turn on the MacBook I have to unplug the HDMI cable, wait a few seconds, and then plug it back in before it will detect the external display.
^^ Basically says it. I just installed Leopard today and plugged my touch in for the first time since then. Itunes won't detect my iPod though. iPhoto tries to import pictures from it and it charges but iTunes won't detect it.
Installed windows 7 today (geniune copy) to play the Star Trek Online open beta, managed to download and install it, but when I go to play it, it crashes. Went to performance information and tools and under graphics it says: Total Memory Not Detected and everything is 0MB apart from display adapter which says 6.1.7600.16385 and monitor resolution.
I have a 24" iMac 3.06Ghz with 8800 graphic card. Few weeks ago I had windows 7 installed for dragon age, ran like a charm, but I got rid of partition (dont ask why)
Ive noticed that a couple of websites that have only .wmv available to download movies. I am running a Mac G4 with OS Tiger and Opera/Safari/Firefox for the net. I can easily play wmv's with my QTpro and or VLC.
The movies that I typically DL are usually 300 to 400 megs. They completely DL on my browser (Opera, Safari, or Firefox) after about 10 minutes or so. However once I DL the .wmv files onto my harddrive , they show up at only about 3 or 4 kb!!?? So thats about a total of like .2 seconds of play back!!?? Therefore one second of total playback.I believe this is not an Apple vs Windows issue, but something else. Any ideas?
When replying an Mail, I cant see the original email any more, just a white page as with a new mail.Instead, I have to forward the email and copy all the addresses if I want to have the originals and it's so uncomfortable.
Everything has been working brilliantly until last week.
When I plug my MacBook into my tv with a VGA cable, the resolution becomes significantly lower so that the windows will fit nicely on the TV screen. This is great. But when I unplug from the TV, and my resolution restores to normal, my window sizes are all messed up! For example, I normally have iTunes and iCal full-screen in dedicated spaces. Now they look like this (attached screenshots). Any way to have these windows automatically restore to their original size?
I'm planning of sending in my white macbook to AppleCare for a few repairs regarding the white casing (cracks) but do not want to send in my Western Digital 500GB Hard Drive.
I called AppleCare and they said they prefer it when you send in the original hard drive, for whatever reason they stated. My personal reason why I don't want to send in my 500GB Hard Drive is that I have a ton of files in there that are important and don't have another 300+ hard drive lying around to back everything up. Another reason is that my Leopard Family Pack disc I purchase years ago is at my parent's house in New York and I live in California, so getting it would be a huge hassle considering it's somewhere in boxes of storage and my folks are in Venice till the 15th of June.
Look, essentially what I'm freaking out over is that I've heard many cases that when you send in your computer to applecare, its not uncommon to get a macbook back with an erased hard drive.
I just don't wanna deal with the hassle. So am looking to avoid it altogether. Doing so bytaking out my 500GB HD and popping in the original 80GB HD that the Mac came with. I thought I had Leopard in there but when I put in the 80GB HD in the Macbook and turned on the Mac, a confused faced folder came on and turned off.
I want to send in my Macbook with the 80GB HD and that HD to have Leopard on it...so I decided to do the same method I used when I transferred everything from my 80GB HD to my 500GB HD when I first purchased it.
I used SuperDuper! application, free version...but it didn't work.
I set it up to "Copy: Mac HD to Untitled" (Untitled was the name of the 80GB since I erased it when I got my 500GB HD hoping to use it for Time Machine but never did)
I tried this twice, each time taking about 2 hours to transfer and copy to the untitled HD. I tried "back up all files" & "back up user files." But after this process was done and I popped in the untitled HD into the Mac I continued to get the same confused folder face..twice.
Any help on the matter is really appreciated as I'm highly considering not even sending my Macbook in with the 500GB HD to completely avoid any possible frustation if that HD was to magically erased.
I've looked at some other posts that have gone over how to move files to an external drive, and they all say to use command while moving. I understand this copies the file and deletes the original, but when you make a copy and delete the original, you lose some of the original data, such as creation date, etc... This makes storage and organization more complicated than it has to be.
ok trying not to get a panic attack here. I downloaded espionge to encrypt my valuable files and while it was encrypting (AES 128 bit i think) the program froze and I had to Force quit it. Now I try to open my file (that i was trying to encrypt) and it looks f*^&# up. I can't open it, and when I tried to unmount the partially encrypted file, espionage gave me errors that it couldnt recover the original file.
I had basically all my life's valuable accumulated data in that folder (it was 10 Gb+). I will praise anyone to the end of my days that can somehow tell me how to restore my file to its original state. Usefull info:
1) AM planning to pay gazillions for recovery software if need be, but free alternatives are always better.
2) I never secure delete if that helps
3) I still have the .sparseimage for the file created by espionage. (P.S. sparseimage's size looks really close to the orignal, also 10 Gb +).
4) Newest version of OSX, and have an IMac.
5) after incident I haven't done anything (no installations or downloads) apart from writing this.
6) the encrypted file was gonna be in HFS+ i think
I got the i7 MacBook Pro and want to replace the stock HD with SSD. I am thinking whether to wait for thanks giving time for a better deal on SSD or go ahead and bite the bullet.
If your 14 days or under on the return policy and bought from Best Buy, check your local stores. Mine got theirs in yesterday. Went over there this morning and exchanged my UMB 2.0 for the 13" MBP 2.26. Didn't get charged a restocking fee and ended up owing only 106 bucks (I went in on Wednesday and price matched down to 1099 which is why I owed money on the exchange).
I don't know about your MP, but my stock Seagate 320 GB HD was very noisy. It would whine when spinning up from sleep and give lots of ticks and clicks when accessing data. I pulled it out and installed four different HD's:
2 WD Caviar 500GB and 2 Seagate 320GB 16MB cache. Those four HD's produce collectively less noise than the original single Seagate 320GB HD. I installed the original HD in an external USB 2/eSATA case and use it for archiving.
Ok... so... tonight my most badass girlfriend actually BOUGHT me another 1 TB drive as a surprise for the Mac Pro!!! God, you gotta love that girl! This replaced the stock 320 Gig drive which I HAD previously been using for Media only (Itunes library and the like) with a 1TB Western Digital Green drive (Best buy w/ coupon for $206).
Well, I thought I'd devise a little benchmark to test just how crazy fast the Hitachi 1TB that I use as a boot drive is vs the original drive that Apple shipped (320 Western Digital) and others in my system...
So this is what I did. Might be right, might be wrong, don't really care... but I THINK this is a great representative of total, complete "speed and throughput" of a hard drive.
I created a folder called "Test Folder" on my Hitachi 1TB (Boot Drive). I added to this folder the following subfolders / files:
1 Folder Entitled "Movies" containing 12 Large Files = 8.5 Gigabytes 1 Folder Entitled "Guns n Roses" containing 67 Medium Files = 455 Megabytes Copied / Added the OS X "Extensions" Folder containing 271 Small Files = 208 Megabytes Copied / Added the OS X "Frameworks" Folder containing 57,263 Tiny Files = 1.49 Gigabytes
This gave me a total of 57,617 Files of VARYING Sizes totaling 10.64 Gigabytes.
I then proceeded to DUPLICATE this folder on each of my drives... which I believe shows a great overall speed indicator...
"read/write/in-cache/out-of-cache/tiny to huge file size"
And as it is doing all of the reading / writing on the SAME DRIVE... that eliminates any drive compatibility problems, slow to fast drive copy speed interpretation, bus issues, etc.
And here are my results... pretty stunning if you ask me... I think Apple really stuck some DOG SLOW drives in there as stock. I honestly think they should be ashamed of themselves.
Time to Duplicate Folder on Stock Hard Drive: (Western Digital 320 Gig WD3200AAJS) = 9 Minutes, 08 Seconds
Time to Duplicate Folder on Hitachi 1TB Replacement: (Hitachi HDS721010KLA330) = 5 Minutes, 35 Seconds
Time to Duplicate Folder on Western Digital 1TB Drive: (Western Digital WD10EACS-00ZJBO) = 6 Minutes, 20 Seconds
Time to Duplicate Folder on Older WD 500GB Drive: (Western Digital 5000AAJS-32YFA0) = 7 Minutes, 18 Seconds
Time to Duplicate Folder on Older WD 400GB Drive: (Western Digital D4000KD-00NAB0) = 8 Minutes, 52 Seconds
I was just wondering if you can overclock the 8800gt from its stock rating? If you can is there any real benefit? And lastly if you can and there is a benefit how do I go about doing this?
