OS X :: USB Overdrive Settings Do You Use To Match A PC Mouse?
Oct 16, 2009
I'm a lifelong Mac user, but I use a PC at work and that means using Excel and Word a lot. Whenever I work from home on my Mac I always have a slight bit more difficulty in selecting the cells I want in Excel and I do attribute this in the slight differences between how the Mac mouse and PC mouse work.
I've used USB Overdrive for as long as I can remember but I only started thinking about what settings would give me the same mouse movement as a PC on my Mac. I am mainly interested in what Speed and Acceleration setting you have to best mimic a PC. I currently am using 400 dpi and 150% accel.
I've been using a Logitech G7 mouse w/ USB Overdrive (and now Steermouse). I have an issue with the mouse double-clicking when it's supposed to single-click. It does it randomly throughout the day.
I tried testing my original Apple Bluetooth Cordless Mouse (not the MM), it works fine. No accidental double clicking. The G7, in Windows, does not suffer from this problem. I know the G7 isn't "supposed" to work with OSX, which is probably the reason why it's doing this in the first place, but I have seen other readers install USB Overdrive and Steermouse without issues.
Is there a way to go to default OSX Mouse drivers? Maybe all these installs of 3rd party apps screwed something up. I don't know, just a guess. If anyone has any info on how I could go about fixing this issue, let me know.
So here's what happened: I had a MX518 that I got for my iMac, and then I found out that it had no drivers for OSX, so I ended up taking it back, and exchanging it for MX400. MX4000 has OSX drivers, but the wheel is awful. Each time I press the scroll wheel (which feels like it needs a bodybuilder to be able to press it), the thing tilts either left or right, causing it to not only activate the middle button, but also a left/right wheel button. This is very annoying.
I'm wondering if anyone here is using software such as USB Overdrive like the one found here (URL) I mainly want to run it on MX518, and was wondering if the dpi switch buttons still work with it after it's installed on the system.
I have recently been having problems with left and middle clicks not being picked up by OS X. For example, I click a link, but its not selected at all. Another is I middle-click a tab in FF to close it, and nothing happens. I usually have to click twice in succession or hold the button down for a second or teo for the click to register. The weirder part is that it doesn't always happen. The right button and back/forward buttons on my mouse don't seem to be affected. I've tried to clean my mouse (Logitech MX518) but that doesn't fix the problem. The only thing I can think that is causing the problem is mouse drive I am using (USB Overdrive). I have to use it as Logitech hasn't and won't release drivers for the MX518 for the Mac. A bit of research shows that a few people have had similar issues. Has anyone here run into this problem before? Know of a solution? If not, do you guys know of any alternatives to USB Overdrive that I can use that works with 10.6.x?
I use a Razer Deathadder and ever since I've started using it I've had to reset my sensitivity settings (via Apple -> System Preferences -> Mouse) after every system restart. I've read a bit about it online, some seem to think that deleting the Razer driver would work, but it hasn't for me. Any ideas on why the settings keep getting changed back to default?
I just upgraded my 15" Retina Macbook Pro from Mavericks to Yosemite. I had to reset the mouse settings so I went to System Preferences and made the changes for the tracking speed and scroll direction. The changes happened immediately, however once I shut the computer down and turn it back on again, the settings are back to a default slow speed with reversed scroll direction.Â
I'm trying to get my wired mighty mouse working to my satisfaction but it wants to left click if I touch the mouse anywhere as far back as the apple logo. Thats a little far back for a left click so I'm doing it when I don't want to. Btw, I made the left button my primary button coming from a windows PC background. Also how to I reset everything in the mouse settings, I've changed alot of things.
Stayed with 10.6.8 for years and had no issues, then started to see problems with Safari, websites not loading, email problems, updates no longer available etc etc. Â
So I used Carbon Copy Cloner to make a backup, wiped everything, then a clean install of Yosemite. All went very well indeed!Â
I have 3 accounts setup on the one iMac (2011 model i7 Quad core). 2 of these accounts work perfectly, but the thing which is driving me nuts is on the 3rd account. I set the mouse tracking speed and remove the scroll direction tick, but whenever I log out, it resets itself! Every time I log in, I have to go to System Prefs and reset it all over again!Â
The solution is to setup another account of course, and copy all files over, but I'd prefer to work through this issue to find out whats causing it if I can.Â
When I try to select this option in system preferences, my system just hangs indefinitely. I was considering getting the four finger gestures up and running, but I had only thought about it and did not actually start doing anything to the computer. Maybe they are reading my mind and punishing me? It has been like this for a couple of days through multiple reboots.
Does anyone know the terminal command for toggling on/off the System Prefs for Keyboard & Mouse? I'd use it for an Automator workflow or Quickeys shortcut. The specific setting is "Use all F1, F2, etc keys as standard function keys." I and many other Cinema 4D users find ourselves needing to turn this on and off all day long, because the app uses that F8 key that the new Aluminum keyboards have coopted, but using it means losing our speaker volume / mute settings. This is in Tiger btw.
change mouse settings from default for user Aswitch to user Bswitch back to user A changes to mouse settings have been wiped and the default mouse settings restored..I've tried various things with user A like logging off entirely, rebooting, even making other changes in the settings that require an admin password in the hope that this might force some sort of admin override
I seem to have a problem with my Mighty Mouse where, after a while, the functions I set to the 3rd and 4th button are reset in the System PreferencesKeyboard & Mouse tab. I would set the scroll wheel button to Expose - All Windows, and the Side Buttons to Expose - Desktop, but after a random amount of time (say 1hr) they revert back to Button 3/Button 4 respectively and do not work.
Is it possible to configure USB Overdrive to access Dashboard and Expose using the middle mouse button and one of the thumb buttons?
The control panel has options for what actions to take when these buttons are pressed, but Dashboard/Expose are not among the choices. Trying to assign a keystroke to the buttons doesn't work either because when I try, the keys activate Dashboard or Expose rather than capturing the key in USB Overdrive's keystroke window.
I've recently been running into problems with mouse clicks not being picked up by OS X. At first I thought it was my mouse, but it seems to happen with other USB mice as well. Turns out the problem is being caused by USB Overdrive. Seems there is a problem with it and 10.6.x. Turns out that I am not the only one with the problem and no one has heard from the developer of a workaround or patch to fix the problem.
I use a Logitech MX518 and Logitech won't release Mac drivers for it, so I need something like USB Overdrive to get full functionality. Does anyone here know of any alternatives to USB Overdrive that work with Snow Leapord?
today I've received my new iMac. It's a fantastic machine.I'd like to use the overdrive feature in the Catalyst Control Center but it's not available (not even displayed). Does anyone know of a workaround to enable that feature? I'd like to overclock the graphics card a bit.
I am currently experiencing problems booting up my imac 17-inch, 1.6GHz (2004 model I think). When I hit the power button the machine starts but the screen rmains black and after about 3 mins of this, the fan goes into overdrive! The only way I can turn the computer on at the moment is to remove the casing and use the on switch located inside the the machine, although this is no guarantee it will work, sometimes it does but the majority of times it will be the same black screen as before. All I am waiting to hear is the part in the top corner (hard drive~?) to click into gear and then it's fine, and the machine seems to work perfectly. But this is not a solution and I fear it is only a matter of time before the machine just explodes altogether
I have a G5 Duel 2GHz Power PC, Recently I was losing the time, date and wireless settings so I assumed as my machine is now 4 years old the PRAM battery was up for renewal.This has now been replaced but I'm still losing my settings, not all the time but randomly, sometimes I lose my wireless key sometimes I lose time and date sometimes both, this can happen daily.
I have removed the (New) Battery and checked the voltage and it reads 3.6 Volts, I haven't checked this under load though, so presuming that the battery is OK, what else could cause this.. a failing System Board?
Everywhere I look I find comples answers about the best way to use the Match service, etc.I am starting simple.if possible I do NOT want to get ICloud. I just want my music world to work about as well as it has until now:
1) I have my CDs on my IMac.
2) I sync what I need to my IPad using a cable. (I hear you an do it wirelessly, but I have not seen how to do that.)
We are told we have to hurry as MM will end and then we will not be able to carry over stuff to the Cloud.
1) Will Itunes sync still work as it does if I do not choose to go over to the cloud?
2) Will I still be able to move some or all pictures over to the IPad the same way I do now?
If so, then I don't think I need the Cloud or Match (I am in Japan and not sure we even have the Match program).I do not need my mobile me address.I do not need to have documents duplicated across devices. I just want to go on as I have.I understand you can have stuff in the cloud so you can have access to it all the time. But I don't travel. I just want my muisc selection in the living room and upstairs in my room.Plus I have many GB of musc, so I think I would go righth over the 5GB limit right away.
Info: iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.3), and a 64GB Ipad version 2
I have altered the metadata in most of my songs by either changing the genre or album art. Will itunes change this data back to the original if I sign up for the Match service?
If I needed/wanted to start a brand new iTunes Match file and completely wipe out the old one how would I go about that?Also when I go to do an update the order is such that a download starts of the current [incorrect] Match file and then the update/upload follows-why is that? (It seems to me that they should be individual commands.)
I have recently re-located the the US from Canada and have been trying to change my ITunes account acordingly. When I try and change my Country/Region I get the following message: You have an active iTunes Match Subscription; you must cancel it before you can change stores.Is there any way to cancel the subscription short of calling apple Tech support? There must be some way to cancel the service on iTunes.
I recorded the show using Garage Band by plugging in an external sound card and getting the music that was send to the speakers in the room. Now I'm trying to edit the show but when I put my recorded music under the filmed video the doesn't seem to match... I'ts just like the audio is a little faster, which makes it unable to get the playing in sinc...
Info: Final Cut Pro X, OS X Mountain Lion (10.8.4)
