I ordered the incorrect iMac, I originally wanted the i7 processor. Can the processors be swapped in or are they soldered to the motherboard? Would Apple stores do this type of work or do I need to find someone else? I've replaced RAM, cards, hard drives on my Window's PC's before but I know the Apple iMacs are much more difficult to repair and dis-assemble, but I'm willing to give it a try if there are very good instructions.
I need to replace the hard drive to my iMac 1.8 GHz, PPC G5. Would an external drive be too slow to run the OS? If I do replace the internal drive with another internal model, proper dimensions/specs for this model iMac? I've been given various, conflicting information. Do I need to use a 1.5 GB/S drive or can I get a faster drive? It is hard to find a 1.5 GB/S drive.
My iMac died a few days ago. I shut it down the previous night, and then in the morning when I went to turn it on, nothing happened. The screen display doesn't turn on, nothing. I opened it up and did the LED tests, and found that the first one would turn on, but none of the others would. The apple site says to take it to a store and have it fixed.
Now, I bought my mac on December 19th, 2004 ( what a day that was). At the time, I didn't think I'd need to buy applecare or anything. So about how much do you guys think it would cost to replace the logic board? And also, how long would it take to have it replaced?
I've recently been having problems with my iMac G5 iSight after downloading iTunes 9. After a series of freeze-ups, i noticed a visual anomaly appear on my screen. Little hash-marks all over the display were present, and playing DVDs or iTunes visualizer would result in a checkerboard pattern. After doing some research, I found out this was a logic board problem, and it was not uncommon for iMac G5s. However, I kept using my computer for a few more months when it then started freezing two minutes after boot up. I figured it was time to open up the computer and take a look. But after spending the 3.5 hours opening the machine, removing all of the cables and screws, I couldn't find any visible damage on the board. No swollen capacitors like everyone was complaining about. The only strange thing I saw was some discoloration on a few circuits near the USB and Firewire outlets.
I've decided to replace the logic board myself for around $370, and I was wondering about a few things. 1. Would the new logic board come with a processor, or would I need to pry it off of my old one, and re-attach it?
2. Would I need to go through a lot of re-programing and software issues if I replaced my logic board, or would it just start running right off the bat after replacing it?
3. Is this operation worth it? Because I have come to like my iMac after 5 years of use, and I would like to know if fixing it would give me a decent amount of usage before I would simply need to replace it
My hard drive was going out on my older G4 Imac so I took it out and replaced with a new drive. Prior to removing the older defective drive I backed everything up on an external drive.
*I assumed I could just format the new drive and then reinstall the original OSX disks and then drag over the backup files and live happily ever after!
Problem #1: mac starts up but flashes a question mark. I insert the backup/restore disks that came with the computer (6 gray discs). This is not correct I see.
Problem #2: I am not 100% the drive I have is the right one (see below for all details). I may need a different connector? I ran the diagnostic cd that came with it and the new hard drive shows up and it says it's OK. NO other problems on the test.
Problem #3: I think the drive will/can only access 128GB of the new 200GB hard drive? if so, does this mean it will not work without an card or it will just not see/read the other storage?
Problem #4: Are the restore disks NOT the OS to reinstall? or was this on the internal hard drive already from the factory pre-loaded?
Someone said I would have to have someone make me a bootable OSX install and connect via external drive to start and then format the new drive and then re-install the OS somehow. I have been racking my brain trying all options and researching online all weekend!!
*Please let me know what the options are to fix this situation.
details:
G4 iMac Power PC M8535LL/A 800 Mhz. 512 MB.SD Ram OSX 10.4.11
My iMac is old. 2003 runs lepoard and 85 gig and I gig memory. Problem is can't find finder ( where's finder) turned off and on to no avail hard drive is 95% full also use Iomega 450 gig portable hd!
I have 1 dead pixel and it didn't bother me that much, but I recently turned off the screen to see smudges to clean it and there's a freaking gash behind the glass on the right side. I'm at day 13, so I want to bring it in to get it replaced, but my question is, will I lose all my settings? Can I back up my programs and everything to an external and just install them when I get the new replacement and it will be just like my old one?What about settings like my view settings in the finder and what not? How much will I have to redo.Also, I bought 16BG of third party ram. I will have to put back the old ram obviously, but I'm just wondering if there's anything I should know.
i wrote a thread last week about some pixel issues. i've now figured out the cause of the faint pixel lines that have mysteriously begun to appear on the far left part of my screen. the pixel lines appear where i have had application windows up for an extended amount of time. saturday i had safari open for only an hour or two and a line developed on the left edge of the window, which remained there for several hours afterwards. i've also noticed lines develop on the bottom of the window as well. the pixel lines stay burned in for a couple hours and then slowly fade to normal. this makes my claim a little more tricky i think.
i've tried switching from a dark desktop background to a lighter grey, but the ghost lines still manage to show up if the computer gets used for more than just a brief period of time.
it's annoying and will probably only get worse, so i think it's time to head up to the apple store. what are my chances of them repairing/replacing my iMac? (it's less than a year old and therefore under warranty.)
I currently have an original 2006 Mac Pro (dual 2.66GHz) which has served me well over the past 4+ years but I'm thinking that the time has come to look for a replacement.
Here are the replacement machines I've been looking at along with my thoughts...
2010 MacPro - 2.8GHz Quad While I like the price point ($2500), I'm not sure how much of a performance boost I will get over my current machine. Also the processor architecture is the previous generation (Nehalem vs Westmere). Is that a legit concern?
2010 MacPro - 3.2GHz Quad Once again, chip architecture and performance (to a lesser extent due to the higher clock speed) are concerns but $2,900 is doable from a financial standpoint.
2010 MacPro - 3.33GHz Hex This is the one I really want but $3,700 is out of my price range.
2009 MacPro (Refurbished) - 2.93GHz Quad This configuration drew some interest when I saw it in the refurbished section of the Apple Online Store mainly due to the $2,500 price tag.
The computer will be mainly used for graphics creation/editing (Photoshop) and web development (Dreamweaver) as well as for web surfing, e-mail, photo and music management and MS Office applications. I also run Parallels because there are a couple of applications that I need to run that are Windows-only.
So my question to the MacRumors' community is which of the above machines would you recommend or should I just stand pat with my 2006 MacPro and wait for the next refresh.
I did consider an iMac but the 21" is a little underpowered IMO and the 27" will not fit on my desk.
I was wondering it it was possible to buy a LED display off eBay, and replace it with my LCD panel on my current Macbook (late 2006 C2D 2.0). There is nothing wrong the LCD, I am just curious as of whether or not it is possible.
Just this AM my G5 slowed down in the middle of a job, I restarted and that was it. Dead HD. I call apple care and took it to the apple store where they suggested I buy and install a new HD.
So, I'm thinking I'll buy a Maxtor 300 MG.
The question(s): The instructions on replacing the drive (from apple support) say to make sure and buy an ATA that is 3.9 wide if adding an internal HD but it doesn't say what to buy when replacing.
Do I buy SATA? If so, will it fit (they're 3.5 wide). Do I need to buy anything else? Will my old G5 have any trouble with the new HD?
Information: Power Mac G5 1.6 ghz Mac OS X (10.3.x)
I have decided to downgrade to 10.4 on my G4s but the only thing I hate about 10.4 are the icons and Xcode 2.5, well I don't hate 2.5 but I love 3.0. So I figured the least I could do is change the icons on the 10.4 systems. Anyway, I want to know how to transfer icons, using candy bar 3.1.2 probably, from 10.5 to my 10.4 systems. Anyone know how, this early in the game? I thought I could just save a container of 10.5s and open up in 10.4 and blamo, but instead no go.
So recently I found a cheap powermac G5 on ebay and won the deal and all, but when the computer arrived it was horribly dented. It was packed with on piece of under a 1/2" Styrofoam. In the end I got a full refund for the computer and the seller just said that I could keep it if I want it. So I wanted the thing on my desk so I went ahead and bought another case for it. Now here's the question, has anyone done this or knows how to do this? I want to keep all of the internals inside for it not to become a month or so long project in my spare time. I am not sure on a tool that would let me get up into the edges. If you want to see some video of the unboxing of the case and at the end some footage of the dented one and how bad it is go here.
I recently took apart my macbook to see if I could get my wifi antenna nudged to work better. It does seem to be fixed, but when I put the laptop back together the inverter cable shorted to the frame, smelled like burning electronics and stopped working. However, I put a new inverter in and it is not fixed. I was careful to note that the second inverter did not create any smell, but the screen did not even light up for a second. The LCD IS still working, as I can see everything on the screen if I shine a light on it. Except for no backlight, the computer works fine. What could possibly be wrong, and what are my options?
I am trying to upgrade my hard drive on one of the new MacBook Pros. MBP ships with an ATA hard drive but on NewEgg all the larger hard drives (400 - 500 gigs) are SATA. Am I limited to only ATA hard drives or will these SATA work as well?
My son broke the LCD screen on our older Macbook. Only the upper screen is visible. It looks like a LCD screen can be purchased for about $100 and is quite difficult to install. Can I ask the forum's opinion if it is worth replacing this screen? He will be entering college in the Fall and will need a PC. It's the only mac that runs on 10.6 instead of 10.7.
my 250GB HDD in my MacBook Pro but have been holding off for one big eason...iTunes. I have my iTunes library set up the only way i've ever done it. All my albums are playlists. Does anyone know if was to get an external HDD and make it a time machine, if it will save the playlists and files in iTunes, i know that time machine makes an image of your disc, but to what extent? I want to do this so i can just backup from time machine when i install the new HDD.
Was watching a 720p HD movie on a plane. Movie starts to freeze up. I can move the mouse but the rest of the computer is unresponsive. I force shut down by holding the power button.
Upon restart, all seems well, I login but computer quickly becomes unresponsive again. I force shut down again.
Next restart is over 10 minutes. Gets to login screen but can't login.
I boot from install disk and run HD repair. It finds some problems and repairs them. Reboot. Same symptoms.
I decided it is the HD and archive and install. Install fails. I wipe the HD cleaned and reinstall osx.
All seems fine as I go through set up and login in. A few minutes later same unresponsiveness.
So finally I did what I shouldve done awhile ago which is swap my current hd with my old one. I do and the computer runs fine! I'm at my wits end.
Just so everyone knows, the day before all these symptoms started I swapped my stock 2x1gb ram for 2x4gb ram. I originally thought that was the problem but I've had my original ram in since I've been trying to diagnose and it's made no difference.
i need to clone and replace my internal hard drive. it's 150 GB and almost full, so I'm replacing it with a Seagate 500 GB so I can upgrade from Os x 10.4 to Snow Leopard, and generally have TONS more space
I'm attempting to do the cloning in Disk Utility- I've got the new internal hard drive connected via USB right now, however when i select it as the destination, the 'Restore' option remains greyed out...
I imagine I need to format my hard drive, however I impulsively clicked 'New Image' and it began creating a disk image of the new hard drive...
So what I thought would be a quick fix on my PB 12" Aluminum (867Mhz) has given me days of frustration. After I cracked the LCD on my PB G4 12" Alluminum (Model A1010), I tried find my way around shelling out $350 for a new lcd. The original LCD was a Samsung LTN121XJ-L01. After surfing Ebay for a while, I mangaged to find a completely new Samsung LTN121XJ-L02, which is essentially the same LCD with a different suffix (L02 instead of L01). I assumed that this would not matter at all since the LCDs are identical, but after swapping out the old cracked LCD for the new one I was completely bummed to see that new LCD dead at birth. I get no response from the LCD, unless I hook up the backlight wires of the new LCD to the old inveter and then connect the LCD flexcable to the old, broken LCD. When I do this, the backlight functions and the new LCD turns grey with no image. I've already reset the PMU, PRAM and NVRAM. I don't know what else I can do. Is this LCD completely incompatible with the old one? I don't see why it wouldn't be.
I have a 12" powerbook g4 that has fallen off the couch or ottoman many times, mostly because roommates never seem to realize that if you catch a cord on your foot that you probably shouldn't continue to walk. This is also because of the inferior non-magsafe charger. This ends up with the powerbook to land right onto the charger and bend the **** out of the male end. In fact I just received my 4th charger and now it doesn't work, I have a multi-meter so I know the charger has juice, but the computer isn't charging. Any advice before I bite the dust and totally dismantle this beautiful machine and place a new DC-in board into it?
My brother's MacBook's hard drive just died. He has a backup of all of his data. If I were to buy this, what do I do after installing the hard drive? We have the Leopard disks and everything.
I recently bought a MBA with the 128GB SSD. When at the store I launched Word on the SSD version as well as the SATA version and there was a noticeable difference so I decided to pay the extra $700 and go with the 1.86GHz with SSD model. I use this machine for development and my builds carry out file intensive operations that delete and generate a few thousand files (when I generate javadocs). My old Dell desktop from 5 years ago completed this operation in 90 seconds but my MBA takes 400 - 700 seconds. I did some reading and all indicators seem to point to the SSD being fast for reads but slow for writes. Is this correct? I'm not sure I can deal with this slowdown for much longer and I'm thinking a having my SSD replaced with the SATA drive. Will the mac store do this? or is there any less expensive option?
I am wanting to replace the hard drive in my macbook but I don't have the os disks that came with the computer (I've recently moved and they're beyond lost). I've read where apple can send me replacements (I assume I'd have to pay for them). Can I get the leopard upgrade and use that, or it just that, an upgrade and I need osx already on the computer. I don't care about backing up anything, as theres nothing on it of any importance, all my music and photos are on an external hard drive.
After spending a lot of time troubleshooting and researching to figure out what's wrong with my ibook I concluded to about 90% certainty that I need to replace the DC-in board. I ordered and received a replacement - and the necessary screwdrivers, etc - from ifixit, only now I find myself just staring at the laptop like I'm about to perform open heart surgery.
My questions are:
Is doing this myself high risk for someone who has never so much as seen the inside of a computer?
Roughly how long should this take me to do? I don't want to start it without some sense of the time commitment involved because I'd rather do it all in one sitting.
And lastly, from what I've seen in guides/tutorials it looks as though there's some prying involved in removing the casing and I'm wondering just how much finesse is required in closing it back up. Does it snap back in easily?
I just need help trying to take out this darn hard drive. It won't come out. There are two hard drives in my G5 right now, I'm trying to pull both of them out. I tried to do the bottom one first, didn't work. Tried the top one, didn't work. I'm stumped, and I tried my hardest to take them out. I followed these instructions: http://www.info.apple.com/usen/cip/pdf/g5/073-0851.pdf
My girlfriend's MacBook has some deep scratches on the bottom that a polish kit would not fix. I wanted to buy a new bottom cover and replace it for her. I have found quite a few on eBay, but I am not sure on which model will fit. She has the new white NVIDIA MacBook. I assume that because the motherboard is different, would she need a case specific for the NVIDIA model, or will an older Core 2 Duo case work all the same?
I know it's ancient tech... but I've reverted to a 12" PB after selling my uni MacBook. I've owned two of these 12" PB 1.5ghz previously, both bought new (combo+60gb hd/superdrive +80gb) and the latter one cost me some bad business deal points because I was in a meeting outside in the sunlight and I could not read the screen. I sold it with Applecare to someone on MR last year. The one I bought is used, obviously, and the screen is "fine" no dead pixels or cracks or anything, it just will only be workable inside. Does anyone have any tips on the brightest or best screen replacement I can get for this? This one has a build date of August 2005 so it's been around, though in great condition. A bit "dim" and it might be worth it if I could get a new screen that is somewhat brighter.
