My co-worker needs help with his iBook.
I switched when the Mac Mini came out, so seeing this iBook from 2001 is pretty interesting.
Anyways, he's having problems with the LCD that when he opens it all the way the LCD turns off. Any ideas for DIY fix? He also wants to know if he can add Wi-Fi?
A couple of weeks ago, out of the blue, my Ibook 12" started turning off by itself.
At first it would turn on again, I was able to check the HD with the Disk Utility, which reported a fault in the HD. Then after a few times it wouldn't turn on anymore. I couldn't hear the chimes sound and the fan (or HD) would start running pretty fast.
Thought it would be fun to troubleshoot it, since I already own one and have taken it apart.
Here's what's wrong with it.
I've gotten it to boot up. Curiously, it describes itself as a powerbook!?
My iBook G4 crashed on me one night, and the only way I could turn it on again was to unplug the power cord from my computer, turn it over, remove the battery, put the battery back in, plug the cord back into the computer, hold down the start button, and it would restart. Although, when it restarted, the fan would go on first, and then the computer would make the normal start sound. Some times the finder would be on the screen after I restarted it displaying a quick link icon of the hard drive. So after a few weeks, it did it again, then a few days, and then it got to the point where I had to keep my computer in the same position otherwise it might shut down.
Now, if the power cord is green everything is fine, but if I move my computer and bump the cord into the wrong place it turns from green to bright red, makes an evil buzzing sound, and in three seconds the computer shuts off and I have to restart by using the method above. If or when the power cord goes bright red I do have 3 seconds to pull out the cord before it shuts down. I then sleep the computer, put the cord back into the computer, and move the cord around until it is green again.
I took my computer to a mac genius, and when he looked at the crash report he said it was frequent, but not caused by the battery and couldn't tell me what was the exact problem. I bought a brand new power cord, but I still couldn't move the computer around to much or it would shut down.
1.) Has anyone ever heard of this happening? And if so, what causes it to be so touchy?
2.) What can I do to fix it myself?
3.) If I send it in, will they be able to fix it so that it is perfect again without having to spend more than the money assessed?
I would like to try to have it fixed. At this juncture, my only option is to send it in for $280 and hope they can fix the problem that no one seems to know what is the exact problem, or even where the problem stems from. I should add here that the battery is fully charged, and the report says it can hold about 1 hour of life, although it's more like 30 minutes, and then without warning to plug in or risk shutting down (like it used to give me) it will shut down.
DEFAULT CATCH!, code=300 at SRR0: 5555554 SRR1: 40003030
typing 'mac-boot' gets me to a white screen with black lines all down it. It just hangs there.
I tried zapping the PRAM but it didn't help. The hard drive has been making those *click click* 'I'm about to die' sounds for a while. I'm assuming its the hard disk . I have another iBook with a failed logic board I can take the HD out of but in case its not I don't want to take it apart just yet.
I tried to open Safari on an iBook with a new hard drive. Wouldn't open it after clicking and clicking and doubleclicking some more on the trackpad. Sometimes this happens on my 12" PB too. It won't open apps normally with the doubleclick on the trackpad
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have been given an iBook G3 l2 in. laptop.It has mac OS X 10.4.11 operating system.I went to the site for downloading windows media player and was told to use the flip4 mac . It keeps telling me mac error-50 and will not open.I have downloaded it 4 times and each time I get the same results.
View 7 Replies View RelatedI have an iBook G4 which was working fine. A week ago my little sister used the laptop and now I have the following problem:
a) The laptop boots because I get the boot chime, but the screen keeps black.
b) I connected an external monitor to check if the problem was the laptop monitor. When I start the computer, I get a gray screen (in the external monitor), but no apple icon () and cannot pass from this gray screen.
c) I noticed that the caps lock light was not turning on, so I accessed the open firmware (keeping hold the power button - getting a weird chime and a light flashing near the case button - power chime ) and I got the open firmware screen (still in the external monitor) and I noticed that the keyboard was not working also! I connected an external keyboard (usb) and I am able to type.
I know I won't be able to use it as a normal computer because of this weird problem. I was thinking to keep it as a "desktop" with the external monitor and the external keyboard. My questions in this case are:
a) Is it there any way I can boot from cd from open firmware? (I cannot do the "keep the 'C' key hold during start up" because my laptop keyboard does not work.
b) Because I get the open firmware console, could this be a OS problem? What I mean is that if I reinstall the OS, could I at least keep using this computer as a desktop?
I recently downloaded adobe reader. Now I deleted but I can't open pdf in safari. It's fully loaded but can't be opened. How can I change safari pdf reader back to preview as default?
Info:
MacBook Pro (13-inch Early 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.4)
I have a 2.2Ghz MacBook recently out of warranty, and now the backlight turns off when the lid is fully open. it's fine till about 55-60 degs but i can't open it more than that, backlight goes off. at a certain angle i can wiggle the screen and watch the backlight flicker on-and-off. if it opens too far, closing it to about 35-40 degs turns the backlight on again. then i can nudge it up to 60 deg again. the working angle also seems to be more acute when the mb has just been woken up, the backlight turns off at around 40 deg. but after it's been awake for a while i can open it up a bit further.
so anyway, i read this issue is quite common with the rev.d macbooks due to an inferior display cable used so i opened it up, using the iFixit.com guides, hoping to see something obvious i could fix but everything looked ok. i stopped short of removing the LCD from the top cover, but had a look at the inverter board. since there's nothing i can see with the naked eye, the only way to troubleshoot now is to start replacing parts one-by-one and seeing which one solves the problem.
i don't think it's the LCD as the display is fine when the backlight is on, and i can still make out the picture when it's off. so that's one expensive component i'm hoping to avoid replacing.
it might be a cable needs replacing but which one? the one that slots into the right hinge looked alright but i thought it might be getting pinched as the lid opens? maybe an internal break in the wire? is there another cable behind the LCD screen i should check also?
i know if the LCD was off all the time then it's probably a faulty inverter board and would just change that but could it also cause the problem i'm having? it seems strange that a circuit board would choose some arbitrary angle to work and not work. this seems more like a mechanical fault than a logic-based one?
and lastly, the worst thing would be a logic board problem but again, i don't see how this could be? any repair gurus care to advise?
I was told, to highlight the information and do a get Info on it and report back what the message said. When I go to finder and click on the attachment the attachment comes up picture stamp size but so does Picaso. I am unable to find a get information attached to the attachment at finder.
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
I am unable to fully access an application or even open a folder. If I press F10, I can see the folder for example but I cannot click on it. I have shut the system off and restarted and still no change.
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
G4 won't fully boot, we turned it off for the day, came in the next morning hit the power button and waited while it booted. It got held up at internet services, we unplugged it from the network restarted. It would boot all the way up so you could see the desktop wallpaper but then the black "you need to restart" screen would pop up.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI was talking on skype. I attempted to open microsoft messenger for mac. It froze up the video on skype, but I could still hear the person I was talking to. Microsoft messenger failed to open, so I clicked okay on the error box.
A few minutes later skype froze up and I could no longer hear or see the person I was talking to. My mac was unresponsive and I could not get anything to close so I held the power button and shut it down. I waited for a few minutes and tried to re-boot. It took a few minutes and was still trying to boot, so I went and took a shower. I came back and it was fully booted, yet running very slow. Every application I tried to open would not open fully, I had to force quit anything I tried to open. Even "Finder" wasn't responding and had to be re-launched. As it stands now, I can't stand to try to even use my Mac because it runs so slow, and will not open any applications.
is battery calibration as simple as fully charging and then draining battery ,or is there more steps?
View 4 Replies View Relatedfully back up and return to factory settings so I can set up again in Lion (from Leopard).
Info:
MacBook Pro
Apple is slowly dropping PowerPC compatibility with its latest software releases as evidenced by a major new feature of iLife '09 that will function only on Intel-based Macs.
Ars Technica points out that GarageBand's Learn to Play, a new section within the music-making software that serves as a digital instructor for a user learning a new instrument, is not officially supported for Macs still running on PowerPC processors.
System requirements found on the Apple Store website say, in fine print, "GarageBand Learn to Play requires an Intel-based Mac with a dual-core processor or better."
When iLife '09 was first announced at last month's Macworld, the system requirements included "a Power PC G5 or 867 MHz or faster PowerPC G4" without mentioning any incompatible individual features.
Learn to Play also offers Artist Lessons from a Lesson Store built into GarageBand where artists teach fans how to play their hit songs on certain instruments for $4.99 each lesson.
Chief executive Steve Jobs confirmed the switch from PowerPC to Intel in June 2005, targeting the end of 2007 for the transition to be completed.
Mac OS X Leopard excluded slower PowerPC-based Macs with a cutoff set at 800 MHz G4 or faster.
Official documentation from Apple gives clues that PowerPC Macs very well may be left out completely when Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard is released sometime during the first half of this year. Developer copies distributed at WWDC last year included a requirements PDF that listed "an Intel processor" as the minimum necessary to run the software.
Adding further weight to that possibility, people familiar with the ongoing development of Leopard have previously told AppleInsider that Snow Leopard would in all likelihood exclude support for PowerPC processors.[ View this article at [URL] ]
If I am using "Mail" and then click on the Apple logo (top left) the Apple turns Blue and I cannot open anything from it. Is this correct ?
View 2 Replies View RelatedMBP/Lion - I'm using my MBP in dual monitor mode with an external monitor and power supply connected. If I close the lid and then disconnect the monitor, my MBP won't wake after opening the lid. I know that with Lion a change was made and the power stays on with an external monitor attached and the lid closed (with the adapter plugged in), but if you unplug the display, there doesn't seem a way out of this state. Even plugging the monitor back in, the display wont refresh In this state the power managment is confused. When closed, the power light is on, with the lid opened the power light goes off, the display remains blank and I can't wake the device. The only solution is to re-boot. as I just want to close the lid, unplug power and the monitor and leave work to go home. I end up running the battery down if I don't catch it before putting the MBP in my bag, and I always have to reboot.
Info:
MacBookPro, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
I have a G3 iBook and just the other day the display stopped working. There were no signs of the display going bad, it's just went. Am I able to boot the iBook via Target Disk Mode on my PowerBook and run the iBook Hardware Test CD on it? Also, can I reboot my PowerBook and choose the iBook as the startup volume?
I know how to do Target Disk Mode but the latter I'm not sure about.
My brother's iBook G4 (800Mhz, First Rev) has completely splattered itself and we're getting a new Macbook for him under insurance. My iBook G3 (White, 900Mhz G3..the last G3 Rev of the iBook) has a failing hard drive.
Now, could I swap out those two drives, at least to recover stuff? And is there a specific method of opening up the iBook G4 so that I don't break stuff (I've already messed with my G3..and ended up with a dozen extra screws ^_^
Mainly the aim is to salvage the hard drive and swap them out; replacing my faulty iBook G3 one with the iBook G4 one which is perfectly fine.
I've a MDD G4 dual 1.0 along with the wide acrylic-bezel 20" Mac monitor with the light in the lower right corner. Yep, it's starting to look ancient. But I still have much use for it EXCEPT that it has a very nasty habit of turning itself off catastropically in mid-thought, as it were. Oddly, this behavior comes and goes in spurts. it will hit hard for a couple of weeks then a couple of months will pass with relative peace and stability. Then, back to the crisis.
Sometimes I get a warning from that power-on light in the bezel -- it might flash brighter for an instant, then within a few seconds the whole system loses power just as if I'd turned off my power strip. Other times, it pops in and out of sleep mode for several cycles, but usually this ends the same, with no power at all. Odder still, the machine has a tendency to turn itself on unaided. This can happen even after a controlled shutdown. It turns on, acts normal for 20 minutes, then maybe goes to sleep and wakes up a couple of times, then crashes. No intervention at all on my part at any time. This is not a software shutdown of any controlled variety. Anyone know what's happening? I can't tell you how much gnashing my teeth have endured.
Late last night, I ran into some problems with my iBook G3. It's the 700 Mhz model, with 384MB of RAM. Nothing else special in terms of hardware config (unless an Airport card is special). OS X 10.2.8.
Basically, the computer seemed to hang and I did a hard reboot, and upon starting up I got a folder with a flashing ? .
I can't seem to find my Install disc 1 to run Disk Utility or just boot up - hopefully I will find that when I go home tonight (or maybe I left it at my parent's place), but I checked using the Hardware Test CD and it didn't detect any problems.
I am having problems opening the CD drive, so I've had to open it using a paperclip. Sometimes it doesn't appear to be using the CD.
I also have run the Micromat test CD that came with Applecare (of course this machine is almost 4 years old so that's finished...) and it detected a problem with the Read Buffer last night, but then I guess the battery ran out while it was on the last test.
This morning, I ran the Read Buffer, Write Buffer, and Volume structure tests and the first two passed very fast (unlike last night), but the Volume Structure test failed. I'm not surprised since I've been aware I have issues with this before. I tried to repair before going to work but at one point it seemed to hang so I gave it another hard reboot.
Last night, I would sometimes get the apple logo with the spinning "clock", and sometimes I would get the ? but it would never get to the login screen.
My iMac runs for 10-15 minutes and then turns itself off. This has happened 3-4 times in a row.
View 2 Replies View RelatedMy iBook G4 power supply failed and I'm awaiting a replacement. In the mean time, can I use the power supply from my iBook G3 with the iBook G4?
View 1 Replies View RelatedRight now I have a G3 iBook (900 MHz, 640 MB RAM, Combodrive, 40 GB HDD). I'm looking at a G4 iBook (1.2 GHz, 768 MB RAM, Superdrive, 60 GB HDD).
How much faster would the G4 be over my G3. I figure that after selling my G3, the G4 would only be another $200ish on top of it. Would this be worth it?
I just bought a parts ibook from ebay, but I managed to fix it, except there was no hard drive. I currently have a 6 GB HD in it with OS X.3.9 on it, but I want tiger. I have the tiger family pack, so I have a license for it. It only has a CD-ROM drive, so I am wondering if I can buy a 40 GB HD, and clone the one from my G4 onto it.
SPECS
ibook G3- 500 MHZ
192 MB RAM
CD-ROM
currently has 6 GB HD
ibook G4- 1064 MHZ
1.25 GB RAM
Combo drive
40 GB HD
My Powerbook G4 only turns on if the battery charger is plugged in, and if I unplug it, the computer shuts off. On the menu bar, it says charging. I know the battery has to be full. This just started happening last night. Also, I just had the hard drive replaced and I've only had it back for a couple weeks.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI have a little problem with my last generation 12" Powerbook G4. Sometimes, after I wake it up from sleep mode, the screen has a kind of blue tinge to it, as if there was some blue transparent plastic stuck to it. After I reboot, it's just fine.
View 1 Replies View RelatedSo, I'll spare you guys the details, haha, but I am stuck trying to decide between getting an iMac Intel or a MacBook Pro for my home use computer. What would be the advantages of one over the other? I just really love the fact that a MacBook Pro would be portable yet powerful. And yes, I have this iBook for portability to school and such, but if I want to do extensive work on the couch, I could bring a MBP vs. an iMac. What do you all think? Are too laptops redundant?
View 3 Replies View Related