I have found strange black spot on my MBP13 2011. is there anything black beneath the mbp aluminum unibody case?
Info:
MacBook Pro (13-inch Early 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.3)
Where i can replace the aluminum case, is it possible?, i search for spares and didn't find any.
View 2 Replies View RelatedJust as the question says..Is It possible?
View 3 Replies View RelatedDoes anyone know if the PB 15.4 Aluminum case is exchangeable with the Macbook Pro 15.4 case? I have a 1.6Ghz Powerbook which has a few dents in the front but I don't see any of these cases for sale on Ebay, but I do see Macbook Pro cases. It's really a nasty cosmetic issue I'd like to resolve and then sell it.
View 1 Replies View RelatedApple claims the aluminum case is durable. Which, I can see why they would say that. But, I've had my MBP for about a month, and it's already got a dent on it. And I take care of this baby as if it was a diamond. Plus, the pads on the bottom aren't even that durable. They are already wearing out.
View 24 Replies View RelatedI bought my MBP about 2 weeks ago and thought I should put a cover on the wrist pad and whatnot...Please recommend me a good case so that my MBP does not have fingerprints, weird marks on the aluminum, and looks good... I want those clear ones..Also, can I use those rubbing alcohol to clean off my MBP before applying those wrist cover pads?And anyone got some 1440x900 wallpaper that looks good on a MBP?
View 24 Replies View RelatedI was hoping that Apple would address this in the new MBPs but alas it seems they are the same.I hate the fact that my 15 and 17 mbp bottom cases are too flexible and will actually pop in and out if you hold it in the middle.I think on my new mbp I did this and accidentally heard the fan hitting the case.To get around this, you must hold the mbp from sides only.
View 11 Replies View RelatedI am trying to find a hard case that fits my aluminum 13" macbook. It is not a pro and Apple doesn't make them anymore. Will the Macbook pro 13" fit my Macbook 13"?
Info:
MacBook, Mac OS X (10.5.8)
I recently got a new lcd for my macbook unibody, started putting it in, connected the lvds connector and the screen lit up fine. After i finished putting the computer back together and after a restart, i noticed that the backlight had gone out, but the screen was still working. I checked both sides of the lvds cord to see if they were connected right, with no luck. So I tested the old lcd, and i found that the backlight was not working on the old lcd screen either... Im hoping someone could tell me what its likely to be? Its out of warranty, so im out of luck there...
View 6 Replies View RelatedI recently traveled to Europe with a MacBook Pro, and plugged it into the outlet with a travel converter. My understanding is that the brick on the magsafe cable works as a transformer and it is safe to plug into a European outlet. I've never had a problem with other laptops.
Everything worked fine with the machine, except I could always feel an "electric" sensation through my hands when touching the aluminum case. This was especially apparent when running my fingers across the top -- it was as if I could feel an electric current running through the case.
This seemed harmless, and I ran the computer without fail during my time abroad. My question is out of curiosity -- is this sensation normal? What exactly is it?
Since then I've replaced the HDD, NIC, and a cracked topcase, which is now cracked again - I'm careful with it, but strong magnets + plastic + time = crack. It's not my primary computer, but it's still nice to bring to school with me.So my question is, does anyone make an aluminum replacement case and topcase for the plastic macbook? Only the topcase is damaged but after however many years with the same laptop I'd like a change (not a huge fan of plastic in the first place).
View 1 Replies View RelatedGetting a new MacBookPro with high res anti-glare screen.I type with two fingers, and often look at the keyboard.
For eye comfort, and to prevent retinal after-images, I'd like all the aluminum dull black. I found tape and fabric to cover up most of the top case and the bezel, but the keyboard is a challenge. KBCovers does not produce a keyboard cover which will be black at the bases of the keys and clear over the keys, which would allow the backlit keyboard to transmit. So first choice is a keyboard cover which has black everywhere there's aluminum, and has clear for the keys. Second choice is an all clear keybooard cover and I'll adhere black to the aluminum around the keys (and top case).
Anyone aware of such keyboard covers ?
Anyone aware of such top case covers ?
(ColorWare voids a three year AppleCare, so ColorWare is not an option)
Never understood Apple's engineering design of making a screen anti-glare and anti-reflective, while making the remainder of the computer glaring and reflective and contrasting. Ye olde black MacBook is such an eye-pleasing and comfortable design.
I am one of the unfortunate early adopters of the aluminum non-pro unibody macbooks, and I just wanted to as some general information about them (even though that may seem a bit odd:
A)Does anyone know exactly (month-wise) how long they were produced?
B)What the cost was (in my case for the 2.4 ghz. It wasn't put on my credit card, so I can't look it up)
C) The initial price (is it the same as now?) of the MBP aluminum unibody 13"
D) If there was ever anykind of restitution for the early adopters (there wasn't that I know of, just checking)
and before anybody tells me that I'm just complaining, Look (assuming my facts are straight, which is why I am making this thread)...I bought this laptop and not but a few months later, they basically re-released a pumped up (and by pumped up I mean included features that were standard in many other laptops at the time I bought mine, for example 4gb of ram instead of 2..) version of it at a lower price. Now I'm not whining, the laptop has served me pretty well (although it's had just as many hang-ups and problems as any other laptop I've owned, apple or other) I'm just a bit dissapointed with apple, and if things stand as I believe they do, this will certainly be the last apple laptop (the only thing from apple that I do buy) I buy .
what should i used to clean the aluminum unibody, when it comes to the lcd screen i know alcohol and other solutions are bad for lcd because of the thin flim layer but the macbook pro has glass so it should'nt hurt the screen to use those kind of products.
Info:
MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.6.8)
I have an original Unibody MBP 15". It has taken a few spills off of the bed due to very slick comforter material and is now bent on both of the back corners. Because of this, when the computer is closed it only magnetically latches on one side. I'd really like to get this fixed because the machine will sometimes wake from sleep because its lid is not completely closed.
Any clue on what the repair cost for this might be?
Also, the bottom piece (battery cover) is somehow bent as well, any thoughts on the cost of that piece? At least this piece I could replace myself.
I wonder if I could simply try to bend the back edges back into place myself... somehow that doesn't sound like it would end well.
I took off the back cover of my MBP (early 2009) and the screws will not go all the way down. I think they are stripped. Is there anyway to use a tap and die set to fix the threads? Has anyone had a problem like mine? I had to take the cover off to check my memory (that is a whole other post) but when I put the cover back on the little screws would not go in very far. The just stick out of the case and will not go in any further. I could "make" them go down, but I do not think that would be wise to force the screws into place, because they may not come back out if the laptop ever needs to be worked on again. does removing your back cover on a MBP void your warranty? I just had a genius tell me that becasue I took the back cover off I voided my warranty, but they are going to replace my memory
View 14 Replies View RelatedAnyone have one for the latest MacBook Pro's? I would be using it conjunction with your standard sleeve just for some more protection since I will be using it India/Asia whilst I travel.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI did this for the Macbook Pro's a while back, but I'm a Macbook guy now. There are a few other threads with profiles but it's no good if you use a profile made from a different panel than what you have. I'm just trying to consolidate things here.
I will try to keep this post current; please only submit profiles created from hardware, not those done by human eye (meatware?) And be sure to say which panel the profile is for. Thanks to everyone for contributing and improving the Macbook experience!
How to determine your panel type/code
How to install and use color profiles
Basic tests to determine if a profile is a good fit:
Black level
White level
Gamma
9C89 (LG)
See attachment (rezonat0r-9c89.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma, Native and 6500K whitepoint. I recommend using the Native whitepoint.See attachment (rezonat0r-9c89-alt.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma, Native whitepoint. This is an alternate profile made from another Macbook with the LG panel. It is similar to the previous but slightly darkerjessica's profileSpyder2 Pro. 2.2 Gamma. Native whitepoint (I think - not confirmed)
9C8C (AU Optronics)
See attachment (rezonat0r-9c8c.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma. I only did a calibration at native whitepoint (honestly, if you really need 6500K then you won't be using a Macbook screen, or any laptop screen for that matter)
9C8A
See attachment (rezonat0r-9c8a.zip)Spyder3 Pro. 2.2 Gamma. Native whitepoint.
I finally put my hands on a brand new MacBook Pro 15" (base model) with Hi-Def Glossy Screen...I'm playing with it since a couple of days and I wonder if it is somehow defective...I've already passed through the following thread but I haven't found the answers I'm looking for....URL
I've also searched trough the forum, found a couple of related threads but no conclusive answers were given, so that's why I'm posting my doubts and asking for you to comment or give your personal experiences or advices...
1) Power dazzle (sorry I don't know how to better express it)
When I plug the cable to recharge the battery and the battery gets finally completely recharged, I feel a sort of low voltage through my hands when I touch the aluminum unibody... I was used to feel the same thing on the touchpad of my former pc when its logic board started to break... (that's why I'm so worried about this potential issue)Is it normal? Do you experience the same thing? Is it to notify the battery is fully charged? I don't think so: a pop-up message would be much more effective...
2) Clinging sound
When I use the MBP in a quiet room, I often hear a clinging sound from the touchpad... I suspect it is the HDD's head that moves to perform an operation... or is it something completely different? In any case, it is very annoying: when I hear it, I immediately start to search myself for any tab of a zipper that may produce it...Again, is it normal? Does your MBP is the same? Does it annoy you? Am I simply paranoid? Did you do something to effectively reduce it (SSD)?
3) Battery life
I tried to calibrate the battery properly, nevertheless I didn't experienced the advertized battery life... I think it depends on the fact I have the Hi-Def screen that is more power demanding than the default one...
Is this the effective reason? How long does your battery last? (I cannot post my value because I just discovered the option to show time besides battery icon...) Any suggestion to make the battery last longer? (I already use cable rather than wi-fi and Intel graphic card rather than Nvidia one)
4) If I move my finger tips on the bottom of the unibody enclosure, I can feel a small step between the enclosure and the cover (something less than 1/3 of a mm) in the area below the touchpad that progressively disappear toward the hinge area...
Does your cover integrate seamlessly into your unibody enclosure or not?Is it an indication of some sort of refurbished intervention or is it normal this way? How can I understand if it is a refurbished MBP or a brand new one? (It's been bought by my university, so I don't know exactly what has been ordered... there is something I have to look for to understand the case? A particular notice, booklet or something like that?)
Wouldn't that have been more impressive than that razor blade thing they're calling the MacBook Air?
View 5 Replies View RelatedIs the white one the same size as the 13" aluminum that now went pro?Pretty much, I want to know if I buy a case for the original 13" Metal uMB from InCase, will it fit on this plastic one? They don't have blue for this, but they have blue for the original aluminum one.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI type with two fingers and must look often at the keyboard.My three year old Black MacBook is easy on the eyes. Because it's all black, no problem looking at the keyboard. The MacBookPro has the shiny metal on the top case and around the keys. Because of retinal fatigue when looking at the KB, one gets afterimages and it's uncomfortable to look at contrasting items. I'm still using only a three year old black Mac Book for this reason. It's just wrong to have shiny bright metal reflecting in one's face.
Is there a company which will make the metallic top of the MBP be black ? If not, muliple black electrical tapestrips would be cheap short-term solution. Because Apple is not contemplating a Black MacBookPro.
I got my refurbed 2.4 unibody MB less than 2 weeks ago and just took it to the Apple Store because the very far right side of my spacebar stopped working, and I had a few slanted keys in various places on the keyboard too. The genius at the store told me they needed to replace the top case (metal chassis w/keyboard & trackpad built-in?) and it would take 3-5 days.Anybody else had problems with slanted keys OTHER than the function row? Anybody else had a top case replacement for this or other reasons?I'm nervous that I'm going to get my MB back and the new top case will be installed crooked or worse than the old one. Or the hard drive will be wiped and I'll have to re-install all my programs and iTunes/iPhoto libraries. I was loving the MB, with the spacebar failure being the only real problem... worried it's going to come back more messed up than it was. Am I just being paranoid?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have an early 2011 macbook pro and I was wondering if my macbook pro's model is the black or white unibody.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI need to rename "Original Layer" to Original Image" When this layer exists. In photoshop I've been trying this, but I get this error error "Can’t make «class cCLr» 1 of document "DE00ER515.psd" of application "Adobe Photoshop CS6" into type boolean." number -1700 from «class cCLr» 1 of document "DE00ER515.psd" to boolean tell application "Adobe Photoshop CS6"tell current document if (quick mask mode) then delete channel ¬ "Quick Mask"if layer "Original Layer" then ¬ set OriLayer to "Original Layer" set OriLayer to make layer with properties {name:"Original Image"} delete layer "Original Image" end tellend tell?
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.6.8)
I am trying to find this [URL] stand in black, I got a white/black style on my room and really want something like that in black, does anybody knows where I can find that?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI want to know if there is some where i could purchase the part for the 15 inch unibody macbook pro's with the anti-glare option (aluminum bezel and matte lcd), to replace my glass/glossy lcd from my late 2008 unibody. I looked up the tech restore option but its looks crappy, id much rather pay for the parts and see if its swappable.
View 8 Replies View RelatedWell my unibody macbook display decided to screw up last night, it was working fine last night no problem. Connected to a external monitor. I fell asleep last night with front row left on, obviously it went to sleep and then I woke up and the screen was black. Now the LED lights are working, my external display is also working. The display settings recognize a screen being present (when I click detect displays and gather windows - 2 windows appear). Ive reset PRAM, SMC, reseated the RAM, control+shift+eject (which just made the screen flicker a little after turning it back on) and Im out of ideas. Its out of warranty and about about 18months old.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI've had an idea bouncing around in my head about turning my Poly Unibody Macbook into a sort of Super Stealth Macbook like this one: [URL]
Sending the Macbook to Colorware to be painted Jet Black is the easy part. That leaves only two problems:
Giving my Unibody Macbook a Backlit Keyboard .
Painting my trackpad black.
I bought my aluminum imac when it was released in late 2007. I had a 1 gigabyte stick up until now, but I decided to upgrade to 2x2 gigabyte sticks. When I took out the 1 stick and placed the new ones in, my computer would sound like it turned on, but the system really did not boot up. I have tried many configurations to see what the problem with the RAM is, and all I could figure out is that the computer will only boot up if the original 1 gig stick is in one slot. I checked both sticks with this, and they seem to register on my mac when I check the "About This Mac" section. Basically, I get a black screen if I use only a 2 gig stick, or both 2 gig sticks. I can have a maximum of 3 gigs so far, but I really would like all 4 that I paid for. I'm not so sure that it's a problem with the ram, especially because it is recognized by the system, but it can't boot up the system, so I am simply dumbfounded. Anyone have an idea what the problem is? I just recently installed Snow Leopard prior to getting the RAM if that has any importance.
View 3 Replies View Related