After the laters update that came out a few days ago, i updated both my wife's and my macbook airs. now every time open the screen we have to manually login to our home wifi,
View 9 RepliesMy university has a Wifi all other the grounds but i can only use it occasionally with my macbook for some reason. It sometimes loads things like google reader or google searches but i cant look at google images or anything. Everyone else just loads safari or the equivalent and enters an email address and they can browse. Mine does that but then stops and starts working every so often.
View 15 Replies View RelatedIs it at all possible 2 update a 13-inch MacBook from OS X 10.5.8 to 10.6?
Info:
MacBook, Mac OS X (10.5.8), 13-inch
I just did the firmware update from my late 2011 Macbook Pro 13" (running 10.7.3) which all seemed to go fine, except I can't connect to my wifi any more. There is another 13" macbook pro, a 13" macbook air and 2 android phones which can all still access the wifi. I keep getting a message that my password is invalid (I know it's not). Everything I have tried has been done with the power supply connected.I have:
-rebooted the wifi router
-rebooted the mac
-shut down, waited for 5 minutes and rebooted
-repaired permissions
-deleted the keychain and tried to make a newconnection
-tried reinstalling the EFI firmware update from a .dmg (it won't let me)
Info:
MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
This morning I performed a 'Software Update' on my Macbook Pro and 6 new items were updated. The Mac then asked me to restart so I did but when it came back on I logged in as normal but it won't connect to my wifi unless I type in the password. I've tried Utilities > keychain manager but all I get is 'Access to this item is restricted' (when I click on show password and login again). My ipad and iphone are still okay and can access the wifi fine.
View 7 Replies View RelatedBattery
I had a 11 inch air 1.4GHz/4GB/128GB for two weeks. I usually set the brightness to 75% and for consistent web browsing (no heavy flash) I can get about 5h15min battery life. I noticed someone here claiming 8+ hours battery on 13 inch so I decided to give it a shot.
I got a new 13 air with 1.86GHz/4GB/128GB yesterday and start to run on battery immediately. I was disappointed. The brightness was also set to 75% and I start to count the time from 25% while browsing MacRumors.com. And it only took 1h38m for battery descending from 25% to 0%. Again, pure web browsing and no heavy flash.
So here is my conclusion: On 75% brightness, 11 inch air's battery performs beyond advertised 5 hours and 13 inch's battery performs fair and normally should give you around 6h30m~7h.
Noise
I don't have equipments for measuring the noise, but while copying the same 10GB files from external drive to the machine, the fan noise from 13 inch is much louder than 11 inch.
Now I like my 11 inch more in general, although I really hate the 1366 x 768 screen. I don't know if I should sell the 13 inch or 11inch...
[edit]:
On my 11 inch air: battery capacity 4664
On my 13 inch air: battery capacity 6634
[edit2]:
I will do another test to see how long exactly my 13 inch can last after a full charge
To those contemplating on picking up the 11-inch MacBook Air or the 13-inch MacBook Air, I thought it would be helpful to list the differences between the two.
Below is what I've compiled so far (in no particular order):
1) SD Card Slot is on the 13" MacBook Air, not present on the 11"
2) Higher clock speed configurations on the 13" (1.4 GHz/1.6 GHz vs. 1.86 GHz/2.13 GHz)
3) 6MB of shared L2 Cache on the 13" vs. the 3MB on the 11"
4) 1066 MHz frontside bus on the 13" vs. the 800 MHz on the 11"
5) Larger capacity battery and an extra 2 hours of battery life on the 13" (7 hour 50-watt-hour battery on the 13" vs. 5 hour 35-watt-hour battery on the 11")
6) Slightly larger trackpad and more room for your palms while typing (hey, it's true!)
7) 16:10 1440 x 900 13.3" Display vs. 16:9 1366 x 768 11.6" Display
8) The 13" model weighs in at 2.9 pounds while the 11" weighs in at 2.3 pounds. .5 pound weight difference
If you have anymore differences between the two models, post below and I will add them to the list!
I am trying to use my HD Sansui 32 inch LCD TV as a monitor for my Macbook. I can't work out how to set it up properly. My macbook is running OS X 10.5.8. My TV supports 1920 * 1080 HDMI 60Htz NTSC and various other resolutions. I am using a mini DVI to DVI adapter and then a HDMI lead to the tv. Problem one is that when I switch the Macbook on and close the lid nothing comes up on the TV screen (meaning it is supposed to only driving one screen, the TV). If I do this with the VGA connection it will. Momentarily the apple symbol will come up and the little circle below it but then my TV says signal not supported.
If I have the Macbook lid open when I switch the computer on both screens will work and I can select 1080P, however it is very grainy and not pleasant to read text. I think it looks better using the VGA. I have heard of people getting nice crisp display with HDMI so I am wondering if I am missing something? Is there any other software that can be used to get better results? Which text smoothing settings should I use? Are there other settings? I am using it on my desk so I guess it is about 2 foot from me. I will post my display details in a minute but my computer details are the following:
2.2 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
1 GB 667 MHz DDR2 SdRam
I'm getting one for school and i'm going to have to carrying it aroound quite a bit, so the 11-inch seemed appeling at first, but then i noticed that there is a few pros to the 13-inch than the 11 inch: There's an SD card slot on the 13 inch, which i could care less about, the screen has higher resoulotion, which i don't really care about eiether, but the one difference was that the 13 inch has two hours more battery life, which kinda got me thinking towards the 13-inch. So what do you guys think, is it impossible to work on the 11.6 inch and should i go for the 13 inch, or should i go with the ultra-portability of the 11-inch?
View 4 Replies View RelatedAfter Update 10.7.4 i have problem with WIFI. It´s always off to start it on i must reboot my computer. Why?
Info:
iMac (27-inch Mid 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.4)
Wi-fi was working perfectly all they way till I ran the latest update 10.7.4.
Now when I do a cold shut down, the wi-fi on the top right hand corner is blank. Cannot do anything to turn it back on. I always try to turn on, but fail.
Basically, it comes down to restarting the computer and praying that the wi-fi signal comes back on. Sometimes, I have to do a cold restart and it seems I'm playing a gambling game. Maybe after 3-4 times the wi-fi signal will become normal again.
This has been happening for about a month. Yes, I'm just getting around to complaining. I did not do time machine, so I cannot go back before this happend. Either, I do a whole another system install or there is a patch I could get.
I've been dropping my wifi since the update. It drops all the time regardless of what I am doing. I have to shut off and then turn on wifi again to show listed. The router works fine with other devices (iPad, iPhone etc) plus my PC.
Info:
iPad Air, iOS 7.1.2
After updating to 10.9.4 wifi interconnection is very unstable and I can't to the internet having to use an iPad to report this.
View 6 Replies View RelatedDoes anyone know if the panel used in Apples 24 inch Cinema display is the same as the 24 inch iMac?
View 3 Replies View RelatedAfter I did the 10.7.4 update on my mid-2010 macbook pro core i7 this evening, my wifi adapter/internet is not working, it is grayed out and says "no wifi hardware found". I have re-booted my machine 4-5 times but that did not help.Apparently, if I boot into recovery partition via holding Cmd+R > there my wifi is working and is properly connected. Infact, I am writing this message through that receovery partition safari window connected to wifi just fine.Another weird nothing I noticed is if I boot into the Safari-only Guest User account, there also wifi is working just fine, no problem.However, in both of my user accounts, it is giving me this "no wifi hardware found" error and won't connect to internet. In fact, ethernet wasn't working as well in user accounts.
Info:
MacBook
Pro, Mac OS X (10.6.7), 8GB, 500GB, core-i7, late 2010
installing the 10.7.4 update on my 2011 iMac 27". The symption is that the iMac drop its Wifi connection after a period of time and when that happens the iMac cannot detect any wifi networks in my area (disabling & re-enabling Wifi on the iMac doesn't help). I have to resort to restarting the iMac to revive the wifi interface. Note that my other devices (including my iPhone and my MacBook Air)can connect to my Airport Extreme without any problems.
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.4), 27"
I just updated my (brand new) iMac to OS 10.7.4 and now I can't download the wi-fi update V1.0 which fixes the issue of not reconnecting to wi-fi network after computer wakes from sleep.
Info:
iMac (21.5-inch Mid 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.4)
Hello everyone, I'm currently looking to buy a 27 inch imac and can't decide whether to get a base i3 27 inch or a refurbished i5 quad core 27 inch. With the i3 I can get the student discount and qualify for the ipod, but the i5 is 23% off right now. Which should I get? Also is there a benefit of getting a 5 series graphics card over a 4 series graphics card?
View 4 Replies View RelatedBefore the 10.7.4 update the WIFI connection from the iMac 21.5" to the airport extreme router works fine!
Now it's failing several times a day! it looses the wifi connection and you are unable to see any wireless accesspoints or SSID's
Macbook pro, iphone & ipad + PC's still works fine!
The only way to get the wireless up and working again is to shutdown and restart the iMac.
In the log i can see alot, don't know if this is some clue or error occuring just after the wireless connection is dropped for unknown reasons.
"kernel: 2329.723808: ath_chan_set: unable to reset cannel XX (XX00Mhz) flags 0x10080 hal status 17"
"kernel: 2632.354892: ASSERT: Can not reenter VAP State Machine"
"kernel: AirPort: Link Down on en1. Reason 8 (Disassociated because station leaving)."
Turning off and on the wireless interface only shows the following in the log, and the wifi will not see any SSID's : "kernel: 71847.200440: switchVap from 1 to 1"
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7), 2011 Model i5 - 16GB - AMD 6770M
It took me a lOOONG time but I finally bit the bullet and bought a macbook. So far so good, I will be giving it a memory upgrade in a few weeks but right now I could use some serious help.
The computer won't connect to my Netgear WGR614 wifi router. I called Apple, they said the airport works and I may need a router firmware update. I updated the Netgear router. I have tried using the WEP, the WPA and also tried with the router set to zero security. The macbook still won't connect. Here is the kicker, my old windows based laptop and my wifes newer netbook picked up the new upgrade without issue.
The macbook (I loaded all the macbook updates with hardwire) will go through the network diagnostics and end up being unable solve the problem.
Equipment: iMac 21.5" 2.5GHz Quad Core i5
Internet Set-up: Cable modem to iMac Ethernet
Problem: After recent update to Lion 10.7.4, my Wi-Fi signal via Internet Sharing keeps dropping. Have multiple iDevices failing that were working perfectly with 10.7.3 (Nook and iPhone 4). iPhone shows full Wi-Fi signal strength and works for a short time after reset (via Wi-Fi off/on, Internet Sharing off/on). Continues to show full Wi-Fi signal strength but loses connection after 1-2 minutes. And not just internet connection; I can't transfer pics/vids from iPhone to iMac either. Have switched to a channel no one nearby is using (channel 9) to no avail.
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.4)
27 inch iMac running Lion OSX. Installed the recent wifi update that popped up in software update and now the iMac hangs on the gray boot screen.
Info:
iMac (27-inch Late 2009), Mac OS X (10.7.3)
I got a MacBook Pro back in April, my first Mac.
I love it so much. I'm really into video editing and HD video, but the problem is that my MBP is running out of harddrive space, and I'm longing for a bigger display and a better processor. (I have the 13" C2D). I'm going to pick up an iMac this Spring. But I wanted to know if I should stick to the Core i3 21.5, or spend more and go for the 27 inch.
My 2010 15" MBP has constant Wifi dropouts, sometimes minutes at a time. Sometimes I have to reconnect. Yet it gets 4 bars. My MacBook never had these problems. It's generally slower, too. It's now useless for online video like Hulu. Anyone else seeing this? I wonder whether it's hardware (e.g. they moved the antenna, and/or because of the metal case) or software/drivers? I'm going to submit feedback after input from ya'll.
View 24 Replies View RelatedI have a pretty old Titanium Mac Book that runs OS 10.3.9. It's a moderately slow machine, but still works- and although I realize that it won't be able to stream video or anything, I figure it would work for email, and basic web browsing- But I'm wondering if it's going to be compatible with any new products such as a USB wifi antenna - because the room where I want to use it won't alow for an ethernet connection- Also, will the old 10.3.9 OS allow me to connect wifi to the newer airport extreme base stations?
Info:
MacBook, Mac OS X (10.3.x)
MacBook. 2Ghz Intel Core Duo. OS Snow Leopard 10.6.6. I'm running a 2006 MacBook with Snow Leopard. A few months back it started dropping wifi connection. Airport would show no connection but would list my network along with others in my building. If I tried to connect with my WPA password it would just time out. At this time I was running Leopard.
Since then I've done a few things.Tried running the Netgear router with no encryption at all (same thing happens). Will lose connection and then time out trying to connect
I've tried the MacBook in a coffee shop with wifi access and at my parents (same NetGear router) and at my new apartment with a horrible Orange Livebox.
Taken the MacBook in to see the genius bar at Glasgow Apple store. Worked fine for them, but I explained it was intermittent but we could not force it to fail. I'm sure if it ran for an hour it would.
At present if I have the MacBook in the living room (where the Livebox router is situated) its fine and wont drop connection. If I walk some 5m to my bedroom it will work for approximately half and hour and then lose it. A few days ago I bought the Snow Leopard upgrade and installed it last night. MacBook runs a hell of a lot faster (yay!) but moving it away from the router and its dead as disco in half an hour.
So to clarify, the MacBook has been tested on 4 wifi networks/ locus with same issue. iPhone, Xbox 360 and PS3 all have no issues with dropping connection no matter where they are in the apartment.
Apartment is a new build and its walls are not made out of lead or kryptonite. Is this a hardware issue rather than software? When updating to Snow Leopard it was an update to the existing OS of Leopard not a clean install.
AIRPORT says the following in System Profiler.
Software Versions:
Menu Extra:6.2.1 (621.1)
configd plug-in:6.2.3 (623.2)
System Profiler:6.0 (600.9)
Network Preference:6.2.1 (621.1)
AirPort Utility:5.5.2 (552.11)
My 12 inch powerbook does not start up. Instead it loads to Darwin. I have an install disk from a 15 inch powerbook G4 and I would like to know if using this would work on my 12 inch powerbook G4?
View 3 Replies View RelatedThe new 27-inch iMac uses up to 365W vs 280W for the old 24-inch! (going by Apple's published max. power consumption numbers. I doubt they would lie because it isn't exactly favourable for them to put in falsely high numbers in an environmental report).
That means there's some extra beef behind the extra components. Perhaps the ATI 4670 is a bit overclocked and the 4850 runs a bit faster than the old iMacs? Admittedly that 2.8 GHz i7 is going to suck a fair bit of power - the recent 2.8 GHz i7 860 model runs at a 95W TDP, however, the quad core iMac isn't available until November. So it won't be using the i7 860, and my guess it is using another custom processor, something a bit more power efficient, somewhere in between the 55W TDP of the old iMacs and the 95W TDP of the i7 860.
The difference between the power consumption of the two computers is 85W. The old iMac had a 24-watt digital amplifier, this new one has two 17-watt amplifiers. That brings the delta down to 75W. Say the iMac's i7 processor has an 80W TDP. That now brings the delta down to 50W. The new display likely wouldn't increase power consumption because of the LED backlight.
I'm not sure if I'm missing much (OK, two extra RAM chips may use another few watts), but there is still a fairly massive 50W unaccounted for.
Just a bit of fat to chew on
I am trying to decide which of these two 27 inch imacs I should buy:
27 inch 3.06 core 2 duo model
27 inch 3.2 I3 model
Is the 27 inch 3.2 ghz I3 model a better value in terms of increased computer and graphics performance and is it better to get the 2nd generation model because of prior issues (i.e. yellow tinge)?
I have been googling and searching, but I guess I suck at that. I am about to pull a trigger on a 2.5 inch Crucial 256 gig SSD drive (I have one in my mac book pro). I want to use this drive in my mac pro. Trying to find an adapter so I can fit it in the mac pro. Any ideas where I can get one? It seems there are hardly any choices for 3.5 inch SSD drives.
View 4 Replies View Related