Mac Pro :: Speaker Volume Drops To Whisper?
Apr 1, 2012slider is set to max, yet there is just a whisper of sound. Headphones work fine. harman/kardon mini towers.
Info:
Mac Pro, Mac OS X (10.6.8)
slider is set to max, yet there is just a whisper of sound. Headphones work fine. harman/kardon mini towers.
Info:
Mac Pro, Mac OS X (10.6.8)
is there a way to make the MBA louder?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI know the issue of the MacBook speaker volume have been discussed elsewhere, but I was wondering if there are any system hacks/applications that can increase the maximum volume?
I don't really use the internal speakers for anything other than system sounds and listening to web-content -- flash videos, youtube, etc. (In other words, if I want to listen to iTunes or a DVD, I'll use headphones or eternal speakers).
The max volume is just *barely* loud enough unless there is absolutely no ambient sound in the room...
I just got the new 15" Macbook Pro a few days ago. My first Mac
Anyway, when I plugged my external speakers into the headphone jack of the MBP, the volume control (both in the Apple bar thing on the top of the screen and the F10/F11 buttons) switched so it would control the external speakers, as it should. The problem started when I unplugged the speakers and went to use the internal speakers again.
And the volume control doesn't work. If I push F11 for volume up, the little screen appears and it looks like the volume is going up, complete with the little water drop sounds, but it doesn't actually adjust the volume. If I plug the speakers back in, it will control the speakers properly, but I can't figure out how to make it control the internal speakers again
I'm sure that if I restarted it would fix itself (probably), but that's a real pain as I am frequently plugging in and unplugging speakers to my laptop.
I have an external bluetooth speaker from jawbone called jambox. From the start on I had the normal speaker volume like I also stil have it if I connected the bluetooth speaker with my iPod touch. But some day ago, the volume from my whole Mac (not just from iTunes) dropped through my Jawbone. It is not just about 40% of that, what I know of, that the Jawbone Jambox is able to bring. This problem exists through all audio / video programs on my Macbook Pro. So like in iTunes, also in VLC or MplayerX. Everywhere. The software sound of MacOS Lion is on maximum. Also the sound control of the jambox itself is reached. It seems like there is a protection against to high volume anywhere turned on which just do not allow me to turn up the volume beyond a specifc point of db. But, I can only repeat: The speaker is in a good shape. I am able to play music much more louder with my iPod paired. But just not with my macbook. I am looking for a "hidden" option to disable the maximum volume limitation of my Mac to the speaker.
Info:
MacBook Pro (13-inch Early 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.4), Jawbone Jambox
I'm running vista on my alu 08 macbook as well and everything is working great. With the default bootcamp realtek drivers I believe their version 1.14 speaker volume is very loud.Unfortunately I made a "mistake" or downloading the latest realtek drivers from their website and while everything works, speaker volume is at half it's loudness. Earphone output seems unaffected.
View 2 Replies View RelatedOn my new 15inch mbp the volume keys have suddenly stopped working. I checked in system preferences that the use F1 keys as standard is not selected. When I plugged in speakers or headphones the volume keys work as normal. But with just internal the little picture on screen comes up so the keys work but it doesn't affect the volume?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have a small issue on my iBook (G4) that's been driving me a bit crazy lately. I noticed a few months ago that when I selected a song/video on iTunes to play, I would get uneven volume output on my two internal speakers. I tried restarting iTunes, restarting the computer, etc. to no avail. In addition, sometimes this problem would not arise for a few days, and then suddenly start up again.
I then dug up the program Audio MIDI Setup and saw that the sliders were uneven . Once I slid them back together, I thought I had solved my problem. Nope! It came back, and I even saw that if I opened up Audio MIDI Setup right after the computer turned on, the sliders would be skewed even before opening iTunes or Safari or some other program that used audio.
I've come accustomed to manually balancing the volume output, but the irregularity of this problem occurring frustrates me. Attached is a screenshot of Audio MIDI Setup with the issue--note the Audio Output sliders.
Set the computer to output to speakers, keyboard vol controls etc control the speaker sounds and "pop" out of the speakers.
Sleep the system and it reverts back to the internal speaker, even tho the output from iTunes, Quicktime or whatever comes out of the speakers.
Does this happen to anybody else?
I have a pretty strange issue about sound in my macbook pro 13". I have NO sound at all. when i try to decrease, or increase the volume, the little window with the speaker shows a little forbid signe there. In the sound preferences its says, no output device. What can i do? I tried to install osx86 to my girlfriends laptop, and i downloaded multibeast. Accidently i installed it, to my macbook, and it messed up my whole system. When i rebooted it, it couldn't boot, and i had to restore my system. Everything looks like good to me, i even got back my personal files too, but the sound is not working. Multibeast installed VoodooHD kext, but i removed it already.
Info:
MacBook
Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.4)
The tower speaker just doesn't cut it and I want to hook up my 5.1 Locitech speaker system. I couldn't find any Mac sound cards on newegg and am having trouble finding results anywhere else. What card is recommended by most Mac Pro users? My professions isn't in audio so it doesn't have to be perfect, just something to play games, music, and movies.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have a 2.1 Logitech Z4 setup, and the sound is only coming out of the left speaker. I have checked the wires, they are fine, and both speakers do work - but it could be the socket that's the problem. It's plugged into the line-in socket, I have put the output in System Preferences to Headphones, and everything is inserted correctly.
What do I do?
EDIT: My sound system is plugged into the headphones jack. I have tried putting headphones into the headphone jack and the sound also only comes out of the left earbud.
Mine sounds muffled on the left when compared to the right speaker.
Its very noticeable when you play around in your balance settings (max left or max right) that the volumes are different.
I have a Mac Pro and not too long ago I swapped from a fat, heavy and filthy white Apple Keyboard to a new skinny silver one. I like it, and also love that the F7-9 Skip Back-Pause/Play-Skip Forward keys work for iTunes, even when another app is active (what's the word I'm looking for - in focus or whatever). But I use Optical output, so the volume keys (F10-12) don't do anything. I know that, when iTunes is the active app, I can command-+/- to change the volume, but I'd love to be able to map the F10-12 keys to do that - without having to have iTunes active (playing, but not the active window).
View 1 Replies View RelatedRecently, my newer (last year) iMac probably running 10.5 started speaking and wont shut up... there is no obvious way to turn it off. I usually figure problems out myself but there are no system preferences that effect it. I even changed the voice in preferences as a test and it is still the same guy reading everything clicked in all applications except when I am in system preferences so far. Usually when I run into a dead end like this there is some mystery key command that works... anyone know?I also noticed that some of the top line (f) keys are not doing what they are supposed to any longer as well... volume up opens the window for expose & spaces it looks like and does not control the volume monitor brightness controls are not working either... I went to the key and mouse preferences and set the key strokes to default and still the same.
View 6 Replies View Related I have my imac apart right now and replaced the internal HD as it was not working. I assume the problem is the new one is not formatted with OSX, so from the INSTALL CD I opened the disk utility and see only one drive called "MEDIA".? Or is that just part of the install dvd that looks like a HD? In the system it shows as not formatted, 0 bytes. When selected in Partition it says :
"This voume is the startup volume and cannot be erased. Size 7.1 GB The disk is not writable and cannot be partitioned"
So i guess thats not my new HD I am seeing? Other than that there is only the two OSX install CD icons.
I was wondering if anyone knows how to do this- it is a pita to adjust separate volume controls on everything. If I adjust the volume on the keyboard, the volume slider in itunes doe snot move. If I set the volume on itunes with a mouse, then come home and use the volume controls on my keyboard, I have to also manually adjust the slider in itunes. Anyway to link the two?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI recently decided to increase the volume of my bootcamp disk, which I had done in the past using a method which ultimately made the disk unrecognizable. This time around I used Winclone to create an image of my bootcamp disk. I was not sure exactly how Winclone worked and to be safe I decided to keep the Bootcamp disk I had, and I created a third partition of a larger volume to which I restored the bootcamp image. Everything worked fine obviously, and the image was restored correctly to the new larger volume. The dilemma is I had two bootcamp disks, so I erased the smaller volume because I no longer needed it. Currently I am trying to restore this empty space within the main disk to the Macintosh HD. Disk util looks like:
I know I can just create a backup of the macintosh HD, another image of the bootcamp disk, and format the disk and start over, but I am hoping there is an easier way to go about this; considering there has been a method engineered such that I can just drag that corner of the mac HD and voila I have instantly more storage after applying, it seems viable that there is something that can be done rather than formatting my disk, unless the necessity for that of course was overlooked.
Info:
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2012), OS X Mavericks (10.9.4)
Before I get flamed and etc... I have google and done some research about this issue but cannot find much about it.
I am not sure if this is a very common issue or topic but how do you adjust or modify your apple keyboard so that you can adjust screen brightness or volume? I am currently running Windows XP SP3, on a 2.4Ghz Unibody Macbook.
When I use the F11, 12 buttons, the pages go away or the dashboard comes up. I've tried to change the settings but that didn't work either
Info:
MacBook Pro with Retina display
I have been using Qwest DSL internet for the past year. But, for the past month I've had a problem with the internet going 100% out (for just 1 minute each time) when I'm surfing the internet or using Skype/MSN. It can happen 10x per hour or just 1x per hour. It happens most often when I'm demanding a lot from my internet connection, such as visiting graphic intensive sites (360 degree tours, etc.) OR when I'm using Skype with video/audio. It's sometimes predictable, but not always. Even if I try to recreate the 1 minute "outages" there isn't a guarantee I can recreate one of them.
Tech support has replaced my 2wire modem 2x. They have also checked my internal and external wiring. They've also changed ports and all sorts of things in the main office. They say I'm getting perfect speeds and a clean signal. They say they've done everything they can. And, honestly, it seems like they really have tried. And, the speeds ARE good, except for when the internet light goes completely Off and I lose my internet for just 1 minute. It then turns back on and the connection returns. (The DSL light and other lights remain on or just flicker).
My computer: I'm using a 3 month old 2.4 MB with Leopard and the basic Mac programs. I also have Skype and Adium, but not much else. No extra firewalls or anything.
My DSL modem: I have a 2wire 2701HG-D. Built in firewall.
Changes: I've not made any changes to my hardware or software. This problem seemed to come from nowhere. Everything was great and then these 1 minute outages started occurring.
Mac/Modem settings: Standard settings using WEP.
Other users: Just my MB (wireless connection) and very occasional use of a neighbor (wireless connection) who checks her email. But, she's often gone. And, these outages DO seem to occur when it's ME online and when I'm using the internet heavily.
I have a Macbook Pro 13" running 10.6 that I purchased at the beginning of September. For a few weeks now, I have been getting random wifi disconnects.
The strange thing is that they only occur when the minute is :00, :10, :20, :30, :40, or :50. More often every 10 minutes, less often every 60 minutes. I am using a Linksys WRT54GL router with HyperWRT + Thibor firmware. This problem did not occur when I first got the Mac.
Yesterday I decided to format and reinstall Snow Leopard to try to resolve some issues I was having. I installed, then used Migration Utility to restore my files and settings from a Time Machine backup. I am still getting wireless drops. I tried deleting AirPort configuration plists as described in county's post here but to no avail.
When I check my router config after a disconnect (I usually reconnect within 15 seconds, but sometimes I have to turn AirPort back on), the DHCP lease remaining time is 24 hours from the disconnect time.
It may be a DHCP problem. I will try using a static IP, but having a static IP means I'll have to change my network settings when I go to school and when I come home.
This occurs in both 10.6 and 10.6.1 with my current settings.
Edit: still occurs with DHCP with Manual Address and static IP.
iMac drops wi-fi after sleep. Have had this problem for a few months now. Has Apple offered a fix because it appears that many users are having this same problem
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
As the title states, I'll be searching the web doing whatever. (Most of the time I'll be uploading my work to an FTP site) and then all of a sudden I click a link and the wireless in my house goes down. I either wait it out for a few hours and it comes back to life but most of the time I need to reset my airport by un-plugging it. Is it starting to go? Its pretty old I got it in the Summer of 04 with my powerbook (its an airport express).
View 2 Replies View RelatedI bought the vanilla octo-2.8 early 08 Mac Pro back in January. (I've since added in the nVidia 8800GT and a couple 500GB harddrives). As many of you know it's a beautiful machine and I've had very few problems with it. I play World of Warcraft and have recently delved into the world of dual-boxing to take advantage of a triple XP bonus currently available. Running two instances of WoW from separate install locations worked fine. But I found that I was hitting a limit. I couldn't really use iTunes while playing without taking a noticeable hit to the games' performance. So I did the logical thing in this situation: I bought more RAM. Specifically a 2GB kit (KTA-MP800K2/2G) from Kingston.
At first I had them in the wrong configuration. Since the default location for the 2GB that come with the Mac Pro are in slot 1 of each riser, I put the new sticks in slot 2 on each riser. I saw ECC errors and a very odd framerate issue in-game. After about 15 minutes, one instance of WoW would run at 60fps (v-sync is enabled) and the other instance on the secondary monitor would drop to 2-5fps. They would stay like this for about a minute then the framerates would swap: the primary monitor would tank to about 2fps and the secondary would fly up to 60fps. I stopped playing, read up on the RAM placement and found out that the pairs need to be on each riser together. I put the Apple RAM on riser 1 in slots 1 and 2, the Kingston on riser 2, slots 1 and 2. Same story. ECC errors and alternating horrible performance. I then tried swapping the RAM locations and put the Kingston on riser 1, Apple on riser two. I also reset the PRAM as I read that might clear any ECC error issues when installing new RAM. In this setup I had no ECC errors. The framerate issues were still happening though.
At first I thought it was bad RAM. But when placing them on riser 1 I see no errors. My other thoughts are a bad riser board or overheating. Although I've never had heat problems and the RAM seems to work fine if the Kingston in on riser 1.
I have two wifi networks each using identical airport extreme router but different cable companies. The networks are separated by a substantial distance. To my knowledge both are set up identical and using the latest software revision and are accessed by the same MB and MBP.
The problem I am having is that in one location I drop a connection about 2 times a day. The TV signal remains. By turning off Airport Extreme for about 30 seconds and then powering it back up, the connection returns. When I go to reset the router, the indicator light on the AE router is always green.
This cable company claims it is my problem.
The other location (different cable company) has never dropped a signal.
Again, I use the same MBP and MBooks on both networks.
I cannot change the "bad" cable company as there is only one choice in this location.
Internet drops out constantly. last software update fixed but only for a short time. Is my iPhone4s the cause?
Info:
iMac (21.5-inch Mid 2010), iOS 5.1
Another user with wifi drops!All updates applied!
Info:iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
I have a new Imac and initially the internet connection was fantastic but more recently, it drops out completely usually within a few minutes of being on.The connection works fine with the PC in the house. Can anyone suggest anything?
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.4)
Wifi drops then freezes on my macbook pro
View 1 Replies View Related