My work is using a Sharp networked printer and it doesn't have PostScript 3 installed. I've managed to work around settings to get my computer (Mac Pro running OSX 10.6.8) running B/W prints, but is there any way to get it printing in color?
Info:
Mac Pro, Mac OS X (10.6.8), Sharp MX2600
I have always used Postscript laser printers to print EPS (vector) graphics - eg from Illustrator or Quark. We recently added to our network an Epson colour photo inkjet printer.
Much to my surprise, I just successfully printed straight from Quark a document that included some text and a (resizeable) EPS graphic. This was from a PowerPC in Classic running OS 10.4.11. A further document with a series of differently sized EPS graphics printed correctly too. There is AFAIK no Postscript engine in this printer.
I now rather gather this may all be down to the post OS 10.4 operating system which is fielding the print file and interpreting it - thus causing my photo printer to successfully do what I thought impossible.
Is there no need ever to buy a Postscript printer again? (The printer is an Epson PX730Wd - US name Epson Artisan 730.)
Info:
MacBook Pro (10.7.2) Power Mac G5, Mac OS X (10.5.8), OS 10.4.11 - Classic rules!
I have an older non postscript HP 4V on a Jet Direct, ethernet connection with a static ip address. It works fine with my Toshiba running windows xp. It ran on my wife's ibook and her MacBook, prior to a recent hard drive failure. Now I can't get it configured properly on my new MacBook or my wife's repaired one. I can ping it and a file sent to it spits out pages of garbage. I've tried using the "Generic Postscript" driver, the 4V postscript driver and the Gutenprint driver. All combinations using JetDirect Socket, IPP and LPD. If it hadn't worked on OS X previously I would suspect that it won't work, but I know it does.
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View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a LaserJet 5P. When I install it, I don't get the option to select that it's postscript or non-postscript. Consequently all of my documents look like userdict()print flush}%%BeginFeature which is very rarely what I wanted.
Why is my computer obsessed with postscript? How do I remove printer drivers?
My Phaser 4600DN prints quite slowly when printing a PDF, a 28 page documents takes nearly 7 minutes to print. On Windows 7 PC the same document takes 6 minutes to print. If I disable Postscript Pass-Through option on the driver the 28 page documents takes two minutes to print. I need to know if there is a similar option in Mac OS 10.6.8?
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.6.8), Printer is a Phaser 4600DN
My old B/W laser printer has bitten the dust, and I'm shopping for a new model. In the past, I have always insisted on a Postscript-compatible printer, thinking this was the only way to render high-quality graphics (I print plenty of text-only documents of course, but technical drawings and fancy typograph still constitute the bulk of my printing). Is Postscript (or Postscript emulation) still an important feature for today's laser printers?
View 3 Replies View RelatedMy graphic designer sent my new branding to me and the fonts won't load in Font Book. They are PostScript Type 1 outline fonts and they don't seem to have extensions like the ttf ones.
When I open the file in CS3 the fonts are missing.
the fonts are:
ITC Esprit
EspriMed
EspriBoo
EspriBolIta
EspriBol
EspriBla
I have upgraded recently with Snow Leopard and my printers wont work. Could this be why the fonts won't load?
I've narrowed my Color Laser Printer (multi-function) search to the Brother 9840CDW ($624), Ricoh SP C232SF ($650), Konica Minolta 4690MF($640)/4695MF($1050), and Samsung CLX-6200FX($510). Prices are ephemeral. I'm tempted to take another look at Dell in case I mistakenly dropped them from consideration mistakenly. Konica Minolta seems to support PostScript. Brother seems to offer emulation via Ghostscript. Ricoh and Samsung employ emulation via PCL. I'm interested in buying the new Adobe Creative Suite in 2010/11, when its GCD/OpenCL enabled (fingers crossed). Should I be concerned about this Postscript emulation? What do folks with the current Creative Suite (Windows too) and Color Laser Printers observe today? Does emulation make a big difference on printer output and performance?
View 13 Replies View RelatedI've been ghosting here for months, eagerly awaiting the new MacBook with all of you. I now own one (as of Monday morning) and am loving it, except for one thing -- the sharp edges that cut into my wrists while I type! I've read various threads with complaints about this, but haven't seen any suggestions for fixing it (sorry if I missed postings about this elsewhere). My two ideas are either to sand down the edges until they're rounded and smooth, or put something on it (a piece of cloth? glue?)
View 24 Replies View RelatedNot too long ago I've bought myself a Macbook Pro 15 inch (version 10.7.3) and with it I also got myself a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter (by Moshi).After I got those I also got myself a HDMI-cable to connect my MBP to my Samsung tv (1080p full HD). After getting the 2 connected and inserting the right variables (resolution to 1080p)(frequency to 60 hz), also tried to change the settings of the TV itselft but the screen is just VERY blurry, not sharp at all.
Info:
MacBook Pro (15-inch Late 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.3)
I've seen various posts about the sharp edge on the front of the MBA keyboard. Although I think the MBA is fantastic in every other respect, I find this "design flaw" to be a real irritation, and can't imagine how it got through Apple's meticulous product testing process.
In my office I normally wear long-sleeved shirts, so the sharp edge doesn't present much of a problem, but on a long flight recently, my lower forearms were literally chafed after a 2-hour session with the MBA. I find it uncomfortable to rest my wrists on the keyboard for even a few minutes.
I just bought a new MacBook Pro 15" a few days ago. I am completely in love with just about every aspect of it except for one pesky thing -- the edges of the aluminum unibody are ridiculously sharp and dig into my wrists after prolonged use. I seriously don't know how this feature ever got passed Apple's design team and the user test trials. Anyway, I've seen some similar posts about this but no one seems to give any good solutions. My question is - does anyone know of any good accessory products (wrist rests, etc...) that would remedy this? The ones I've seen just seem to be palm rest protectors and don't address the actual edges of the computer. Or, does anyone have any ideas for home remedies? I thought of maybe buying some moleskin or foam and applying it over the edge but that would prove to be quite unsightly I'm sure.
View 24 Replies View RelatedJust got the new macbook connected to a newish Sharp Aquos HD tv. Done this with hdmi to dvi cable and adaptor all supplied by apple. Have the tv on HDMI2 channel and the image is great and worked out the mirroring etc... but...NO SOUND. Have tried everything on the tv i can think of and found in the menu options.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI purchased a new Mac Mini today (latest base version from Apple Store). I also purchased an LG 2240 (LED backlit) 22" monitor.
The monitor only has a VGA connection therefore I am using the VGA>Mini Display port converter from apple.
The monitor is generally working fine however the display / quality is very grainy, making the text very hard to read. Also although the text is crisp and jagged in quality.
I'd be grateful for advice: I work on music manuscripts and need a bigger one - 24" presumably - than this 17" mbp I'm typing on.
-As color is not an issue, only sharpness - would a mac display be over-kill? What are the decent, cheap rivals? Would an lcd tv be ok?
-Also, what chance I can use one in portrait mode, driven by my mbp?
When I click on the built-in mouse (whatever it's called), it's a lot louder/snappier sounding and feeling - makes more of a loud clicking sound - then my old Powerbook G4 did. Might I have got one that's a little out of whack or are they all that way? If it's normal, why so "clicky?" These days aren't they able to make things softer/quieter? I also noticed how sharp one of the corners is in the area where the latch (or lack of) is...that center area where you lift up the lid. I like that much better than the old one but does anyone else have the problem of a corner being too sharp?
View 2 Replies View RelatedAnyone notice that Apple's desktop images ( nature themes, etc) are not as sharp on the 27"?
View 7 Replies View RelatedOccasionally I'll be listening to music or just changing the volume and a sharp popping sound will occur from the internal speakers and then they shut off. No sound can play it all. To fix the problem I just have to reboot and then the speakers work fine. Does anybody know why this happens?
This happens on my iMac sometimes and it just happened on my new MacBook Pro and I'm wondering if it's damaging the speakers in any way.
Edit: I don't remember what I was doing on my iMac to cause this, but I do know what caused it on my MacBook Pro. I was recording my canary singing (don't ask why) using Quicktime Pro, and then listened to it (it worked fine). I imported it into GarageBand to crop it and when I previewed it there to figure out where to crop the file, my speakers popped and GarageBand gave me a warning about the current track not being optimized or something. Note that never happened on my iMac.
I just purchased a mac mini and I hooked up the vga cord, however there are two black bars on the left and right sides of the output (everything else is scaled fine but it looks like it is showing on a tube screen). What resolution/tweaks do i have to make in order to get this to fit my entire screen? I am using the typical VGA adaptor for output from the mac mini to the tv.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a 2011-model 60-inch Sharp Aquos TV and I'm trying to connect my MacBook Air to it via HDMI. The two devices seem to be aware of each other because the MacBook Air resets its display when I plug in the cable; however, there is no picture on the TV. It's just black. I know that it's some kind of incomatibility problem rather than somethign broken because (a) it doess exatly the same thing with two different MacBooks, different adapters, different cables; and (b) it works fine with other computers (Windows). I've tried jiggling all posible settings through System Preferences (there aren't many though).
So here's the thing: is there some under-the-hood way I can jiggle with the settings of the signal the MacBook is sending out to the TV, to try to give it a signal it recognizes? I mean, simple-mindedly, maybe it's sending a refresh rate that the TV doesn't like or somethign like that - but System Preferences doesn't give me a way of changing that.
Info:
MacBook Air, Mac OS X (10.7.2)
I would like to know how I install a Sharp AL-2050cs printer in my apple computer.
Info:
MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.6.8)
Has anyone experienced unclear, not sharp text, on a new MBP unibody? It feels like the text display is just 'not right'. My display is 9CA3. It uses the 9600m card. I used a 17" MBP with 1920x1200 resolution for 2 years, daily, with no complaints. After working for 1 day on the laptop my left eye is painful and both eyes are much more tired than normal. On the other hand, images and movies are clear and the colors are very impressive. But, how good is it to watch a movie when the eyes are too tired?
View 14 Replies View RelatedMy new 13.3" Unibody MacBook Pro has been great up until now. I've had it since September and it's worked without a charm. For some reason, as I went to close the hinge (slowly) today, it made an extremely sharp cracking sound, as if the screen had broken off. I had mini-heart attack on the inside, thinking that the screen of my MacBook Pro had just broken. I quickly opened the screen to see that nothing was damaged. I went to close it again and I went past the point that the cracking noise happened at (it sounds like it gets caught). As I kept closing it, the cracking noise happened about 3 more times. No noises come from it as I open the MacBook Pro, but when I slowly close it, it cracks (really loudly).
I've been closing the lid really quickly now, and no cracking sounds occur when I do that. Do you think it's a loose screw or something like that? Should I take it into an Apple Store to see if they can fix it? This laptop is like my baby. I somewhat temporarily alleviated the issue by pushing a piece of paper through the hinge and out the back of the laptop an pulling it back and forth. The hinge worked well for about 5 times, then started cracking again. Now that I think about it, it might be caused because it's been on for about 11 hours. I've never worked it this hard before. I'll try again after I go to sleep, and see if the problem has gone away. the problem is a little better now. There are still tension points (there are less though), but they don't crack very often as I go past them.
I have my photos stored on extrnal hard drive and want to view them full size to see if sharp and then delete.
I could always do this in windows on the one screen with no problems. On the Mac it is very difficult and time consuming have rung phone support a few times and have not come up with a solution.
The last suggestion was to go thru Bridge shurly I should not have to use othere software to do such a simple thing. I thought a Mac was supposed to be easy and good for photographers but I am finding it very fustrating.
Info:
iMac (27-inch Mid 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.3)
i have created a slideshow in iphoto and now want to view the show on our Sharp TV. I have an HDMI cable connected from my macbook pro to the tv, adjusted the tv setting, but it is not showing on the tv....just the laptop
View 1 Replies View RelatedI got my new iMac. It's beautiful, but the wireless keyboard has sharp edges. It easily scratches the aluminum finish on the magic mouse bottom, and the plastic on the top. Obviously the answer is "don't hit bump your mouse into your keyboard"... but with the 27" screen... you have to move the mouse A LOT to get your expose' corners working! Other than that, works well.
Side note: exceptionally impressed with parallels 6 -- but I gave it 2 cores and 6gb of RAM.
I can remote desktop into it with my macbook pro and do some quick coding in Visual Studio - nice. To setup remote desktop in parallels 6 -- you need to go to Virtual Machine.. Configure..Network... change it to shared connection with Airport.
Before making a slideshow in iDVD the pics were sharp (& in preview), but after burning the show to disc the pics had become fuzzy. How do I keep this from happening?
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.6.2)
I have just upgraded my laptop to Windows Vista and I am beginning to get everything back onto the computer after a fresh install. I am now attempting to setting up the shared printers that I have on an eMac and an iMac (both are 10.4.9). I got the file sharing to work between all 3 computers. In XP, I used Bonjour and that was it. I used Bonjour and it found both printers, but it said that it could not find printer drivers. Does anyone know how to get this vista computer printing?
View 24 Replies View RelatedI have a Aluminium MacBook and for about a month or so it has been sharing files with my XP desktop PC easily. So I decided that I wanted to print wirelessly to my printer (which is connected to my XP PC via USB) from my MacBook. When I set up the printer, it finds it and everything, so i go to Word and try and print a Word Document. On the jobs manager on my XP PC, it says the document name is: 'Remote Downlevel Document' and it says spooling, printing, the either sits there forever or just vanishes. My Printer is a Canon PIXMA iP1800.
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