MacBook Pro :: Late 2006 - Enabled 802.11n - Only Running At 54 When Others Can Do 130?
Oct 5, 2009
I've got a late 2006 MacBook Pro and installed the Wireless N enabler a while back. I've got Snow Leopard now, and the card still reads as N capable in both Network Utility and System Profiler. I've sometimes been able to connect at N speeds, but not always. For example, right now I'm on my office's wireless network. Another guy has a MacBook Pro (a year newer than mine so it shipped with N enabled), but I can only get 54 speeds, while he can get 130. Any ideas? Could it just be a router setting? I option+clicked on the AirPort menu item and took a screenshot. My coworker is also on Channel 6, at 2.4GHz
I know they are technically different (speed) but can I put my Macbook Pro memory (default of 2GB RAM) in my wife white Macbook (default 1 GB RAM)? Probably not but I wanted to know if anyone has tried anyway.
I turned my computer on in school, and it would not start up past the white screen. I turned it on when I got home, and it gets to the blue screen, and then hangs. I turn it off, and when i turn it back on, the screen flashes and it goes off. I take out the battery and run it off the adapter. It flashes and nothing happens. However, I can hear it churning, but I see nothing on the screen. The sounds are still being made, and they stop after I take out the power cord. I have backups and my new computer that i ordered left week, is on the way.
What are the differences and pros and cons? Can you switch out the keyboard on one? Switch harddrive? And just general differences. I'm still on windows but thinking about switching. So a little help would be much appreciated.
I need to replace topcase on late 2006 macbook (MA700ZH/A A1181 late-2006 C2D 2.0ghz). What I see the most is version 3 topcase on ebay etc. I don't mind to have a bit more modern part on my macbook Will this v3 topcase fit/work at all? Can somebody confirm? I heard that media control buttons will work only with 10.6 which is fine.
It's from late 2006, but the RAM (3GB) and HD (Western Digital 595GB) are not original. That said, I'm confident neither of these are the cause, as I've had 'em installed for 2 years and 4 months, respectively. The problem: I press the power button. Computer makes the starting sound. Fan whirs on. Grayish-blue screen with Apple logo. Spinning tick wheel underneath. You know the drill. But then, it just suddenly and inexplicably turns off. Fan off, black screen, no HD activity. Nothing. Aaand repeat...nothing seems to change.
This started 10 minutes ago. I'm on a friend's computer now, since I'm at college - this also means that I do not have my installation DVD or indeed any of my wide array of computer-fixing tech components save for my mini screwdriver set. Since I know it's gonna come up - The last thing I did on the computer was shut it down while it installed the latest update for Safari (which I don't use). Seemed everything was going okay - it turned off and I left for dinner, came back all set to write an essay and the darn thing won't make it to the login screen. So naturally, there are no error messages or anything like that. No weird beeps or noises from the HD or elsewhere........................
I have a 13" MacBook (White 2.0GHz/1 GB/80 GB) that will not boot. I've tried the troubleshooting tips on the Apple website to no avail. When I turn it on, the light on the front stays light, I can hear the HD spin up, etc. The screen flickers as if it is getting power, but no chimes or sounds whatsoever. I've also tried to reseat RAM, used different RAM, but no dice. I'm hoping that there are a few other things I can try before I'm left with getting a new logic board.
I want to upgrade HDD for my Macbook and was looking at WD Scorpio Blue 1 TB Internal hard drive. I know its about 2mm thicker than a standard laptop drive and read of people cramming it into MBpros with success. Has anyone tried a pre-unibody Macbook?
I have a late 2006 white macbook. I got a good deal for it at the time. It was the day after Thanksgiving. the sales rep convinced me to go with the core2duo chip running at 2.0 ghz. It now has 2 gigs of ram. Here are the graphics specs:
ntel GMA 950:................
I do have Windows Vista 64-bit Home Premium which I got for Christmas from a distant relative. I won't be playing any games at all or doing any major processing work. My main OS will still be Leopard. I am just going to run a few Windows app that don't have a similar counterpart on the mac. By the way this machine does have 802.11n. I just had to enable it. Since I have the 64-bit Windows Vista. Can my machine run it smoothly for the basic work I will be doing?
I have one of these Macbooks that I want to pass on to the daughter of a friend for use in college. To try and extend its life and usefulness a little I was wondering if I could add more memory. I'm aware that the Apple tech specs state that 2GB of PC2-5300 DDR2 is the maximum supported, but since I have 2 x 2GB of that memory spare I was wondering if anyone here on the forums know different?
I have my Macbook late-2006 and suddenly the battery do not charge at cycle 103. I tried to talk to guys at Apple Store but the only thing they can do is to sell me a new battery. In fact, the battery was in recall before 2009 but I was not be able to send it back at that time. If the battery die only at cycle 103, is this normal?
I've got a Macbook pro 17" with this generalized problem, distorted video and glitches. [URL] I tried all that stuff, but no luck of resolving the problem at this moment. I thought i could try get a new logic board and ind the case get a higher one, but i don't know if will be possible swap the old one with a higher model.
it's possible to swap the older model that I've got the first one that has a core duo processor with the latest ones with a core 2 duo and faster processor ?? The chip-set looks pretty similar in shape and size.
i am about to upgrade my old harddrive and thought while i have it open i might have a look at the wifi chip on the board? but where is the chip? for about 1 year now my wifi just wont connect to the router unless im like standing right next to it, even sitting on the couch which is litterally just about 2 meters away it still will not connect, at the moment im using a wireless dongle and all is dandy, but if i can just have a look at the board when i have it open i could tinker and see if anything has come loose a bit. Is it possible for something like this to even come loose?
I have a late 2006 macbook and had the issue with the cracking case repaired today, however, Apple only repaired half of the issue. The 'top' half of the case was fixed (new keyboard, trackpad etc) was replaced and I am more than happy with it. The bottom half of the case (section with USB ports, bottom of the MacBook etc) still has cracks in it and clearly hasn't been replaced. Is this something that should be replaced as a manufacturing fault as they have done with the keyboard, palm rest, trackpad etc?
What's the difference between the two? Is the new one thinner than the old? Is the connections the same? Etc, etc, etc? What I would like to do is maybe take out the original keyboard and replace it with the newer model, along with the new trackpad. Is this possible, or no? I don't care if the material is different, but I'm just wondering if it'd actually work?
I just got a macbook from somebody and it's great. it's my first mac and i'm learning. i've got a question for you pros however; my airport express 802.11g i believe it is. seems to only get a connection when close to the base. is there any update i'm missing or something?
I have this Late 2006 Macbook, that still runs great and everything, but the only problem iv been running into, is video. So when i watch a video in QuickTime Player, or QuickView, or even YouTube, the video just randomly starts to flip out. So, is it possible to upgrade the Graphics Card?
Info: MacBook, Mac OS X (10.6.8), Snow Leopard, Original MacBook.
My MacBook was working fine until in the last few days it stopped recognising some clicks with the mouse, and sometimes the clicks got stuck so that whenever I tried to move the cursor, it recognised as if I was dragging things when I was no longer clicking. This gradually got worse until it completely stopped working..The mousepad works fine at moving the cursor but I can't click on anything. I've tried to use an external mouse and the same problem occurs.I've tried all the restarting, removing battery, starting on safemode, etc. tricks, and nothing seems to work.
my Applecare finally expired in January '10. Just before it expired, I had the palmrest/keyboard/trackpad replaced (among other things) for the THIRD time due to the well-known cracking issue. Now that it's expired, I notice that yet again there's a chip missing out of the lower right corner of the palmrest. I know that the newer palmrest/keyboard/trackpad (with the iTunes controls on the F-keys) from the later Macbooks is backward-compatible with mine. Are they any more or less durable than the palmrest from the late 2006 models?
My Mac feels as if it is running slower these last couple of months. I have thought of pursuing a commercially available "clean up" product, but thought I would try the community first and also for pointers using the Mac's own internal diagnostics or system improvement capabilities. Any and all advice is most welcome. I have a 250GB hard drive that is half full, I always update to latest revisions and have an extra high-speed internet connection. Computer is not heavily loaded with apps and typically using Firefox for browsing. (MS Office for Mac as well, but usually limited to one program such as MS Word or Excel at a time.) No heavy graphics utilization. Videos from the internet load slowly and some are choppy. Even scrolling just doesn't seem "brisk".
Info: MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.3), 2.53/4GB Ram
If you have a late 2006/Early 2007 Core2Duo Macbook Pro (ideally UK-bought 2.33GHz), could you please attempt to do the following: Create a bootcamp partition and install Windows XP pro Install all the relevant updates to your bootcamp partition including Apple bootcamp utility updates Attempt to reboot from windows, either to OSX or back into windows again Let me know the result. I'm trying to investigate if there is an inherent fault in this batch of machines, as mine cannot successfully do this, and i think Apple have a case to answer for, though i may be wrong...
I Have a 17' iMac 2006 It has had lines in it for a while and i have called Apple Support and they have not helped me at all and no my entire screen has went out it makes it impossible to do anything I am having to try to use my dads Macbook to do my College homework?
Info: iMac (17-inch Late 2006), Mac OS X (10.7.4), With crapy screen lines
... after upgrading from Tiger to Leopard. Did a straight upgrade from install (not an archive & install).
It gets to the login screen quickly, enter password and then endless beachball.
Started in single user mode and did fsck, restarted from install disk & repaired (no problems) and repaired preferences. Restarted with PRAM reset. Restarted in safe mode.
No problems booting from DVD.
ONE TIME I rebooted after single user mode and it worked, I used that opportunity to run the combo updater (downloaded today from Apple).
I did find a support page that spoke of a similar condition in early aluminum (2007) iMacs, but this file would not install on my machine.
I did an archive and install of Leopard and then updated via Software Update, which should have gotten any updates needed for this machine. Now again, it only boots as far as the blue screen (on auto login). I did not see a similar update file needed for THIS iMac.
Info: iMac, Mac OS X (10.5.8), model 5,1 2.16GHz 20" core2Duo 4GB
I can not figure out how to connect the power on the cinema display. It looks like it would plug into the back of the mini where the macmini would normally plug the power in. Not sure if I am missing something. I also do not know if I need to plug all 4 connections the video, usb, hdmi, and iguess what is the power plug in or just certain plugs.
The internal optical drive (MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-846) for my Intel iMac (late 2006) stop working after listening to a music CD. I inserted another music CD and the drive will try to read the CD, but after awhile, it would eject the CD. I inserted the last music CD I listened to and it did the same thing. Then I inserted several other data cds into the drive resulting in the same problem.
Info: iMac, Mac OS X (10.6.7), 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
My screen freezes from time to time and CPU overheats.I have increased the fan speed with SMC download but still happens 2-3 times a day when downloading or watching video, also when using SKYPE worse when using both? BBC iPlayer does not make it freeze?