Mac Pro :: Intel X-25M Gen2 Fit In An Early 09 Mac Pro?
Jul 30, 2009Are there adapters out there to fit this in?
View 10 RepliesAre there adapters out there to fit this in?
View 10 RepliesI want to buy an surround sound system for my imach early 2008. The apple site said this: Audio Built-in stereo speakers with 24-watt digital amplifier, built-in microphone, optical digital audio output/headphone out,optical digital audio input/audio line in So,would it work with the logitech x-530?Or any other system less then €100?
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.3), Early 2008, 2.4ghz, 4gb ram, 20"
I have an IMac, early 2006, A1174. Went to awake it from sleep last night, and the power was off. I hit the button to turn it on, no response. I tried different outlets and power cords, same results. The front light doesn't come on, but I do hear the spinning for a split second. I've never had this problem before. I tried leaving it unplugged for several minutes, and I also unplugged my printer, keyboard, external hard drive, everything! No different results.
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iMac (20-inch Early 2006)
I have had a lot of conflicting answers to my question, so here goes.Would the imac (as sepcified below) be compatible with mountain lion?
Model Name: iMac 20"
Info retrieved from "when was you mac born"
Model Number: MA589
Group1: iMac
Group2: Intel
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Other Info:Model Identifier: iMac5,1 Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo Processor Speed: 2.16 GHz Number of Processors: 1 Total Number of Cores: 2 L2 Cache: 4 MB Memory: 3 GB Bus Speed: 667 MHz Boot ROM Version: IM51.0090.B09 SMC Version (system): 1.9f4 Hardware UUID: 00000000-0000-1000-8000-0017F2D4501C
There is a new humming sound coming from my parents iMac, I think it's the processor cooler but I'm not sure. It could be the hard drive as well, I just know it kicks up sometimes when there is a lot of activity. The problem is they don't do a lot on the computer so it scares them.
They are convinced that it is going to die because it's soo old, I think under two years, but this is the second computer they owned. The first was the first 20" G5 iMac that, instead of turning it off the correct way, they just unplugged from the wall outlet. Needless to say it died, but they think it was because their son in law used it too much. I try to tell them that it's because how they turned it off, but they didn't like their son in law, who is now an ex-son in law, so they blame it on him. Yes, I know, my parents are the last people to own a computer.
They also don't want to spend any money on their computer, so worse case scenioro, taking it to the Genius Bar without this computer being under warranty and having them replace the processor fan and/or the hard drive, what would it cost? I think it might just require a new fan for the processor cooler, but what if they need to replace a lot more?
I need to replace my hard drive but can't locate the screws to remove the back cover.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am moving. I know that mobile and portable devices will work, but will a desktop? I do not see voltage guidance on the iMac casing.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have 2 questions:1) I have a 2.GHz Core Duo CPU. I read that this model has a socketed CPU that can be replaced. Is this true?2) If yes, how fast can I go? Can I use the new Core i3 CPU?
View 10 Replies View RelatedFor a while now, my iMac has been having somewhat random display glitches, flickers, freezes, and kernel panics that can only be fixed by shutting down the computer. Most of these screen glitches go like this: The display flickers black quickly, letting me know that an issue is going to arise. The issues that could happen are as follows:A blue line glitch (very common)a random artifact glitch (somewhat uncommon)a freeze-up (very common) a kernel panic
There are several types of "display glitches" I've been experiencing. Some of them involve random artifacts that are randomly displayed and seem to be hovering over whatever is going on on the screen–for example, once I was browsing Facebook and the glitch occurred, so a square of my browser screen was sort of cut out and stuck on the screen above everything else going on. The issue wasn't fixed until I restarted the computer. This glitch, however, wouldn't show up in screenshots. These are somewhat less common because it seems if this one happens then it either gets worse very fast and there are random pieces of my active windows all over the screen or it freezes the computer up entirely, or even results in a kernel panic.
Another "display glitch" that is far more common is a sort of line glitch. It's very strange: blue lines will outline random shapes and things all over the screen. Pictures on my browser appear distorted and videos look VERY weird. The dock has the lines and random blue pixels as well. The desktop background appears distorted. This glitch often starts with the screen flickering black and the various blue lines appearing. The lines change shape as the objects on the screen move around.The issue doesn't appear in screenshots but I documented it by taking crude videos and pictures on my phone that give examples.
Here's a link to my video of a video about a nonrelated screen glitch. I was actually searching Google for a solution but it turned out to be unhelpful, but since the screen glitch happened to be going on I decided to record it as an example. Notice how the blue lines move with the video...
NOTE: My computer actually JUST screen glitched and froze up completely, at which point I had to shut it down and reboot. Luckily the post was saved! Just in case you were wondering how often these things occur.
This issue is getting worse and worse. I'm not sure what triggers it, but it seems like graphics-intensive programs like 3D games can trigger it–especially, it seems, when I toggle on and off fullscreen. It looks like it could be a graphics card issue, because if it was a software problem it would seem like it should show up in the screenshots. It's sort of an underwhelming graphics card, but meh. My mom is having a panic attack and backing up everything on the computer and we're thinking about just reinstalling OS X altogether.
Here's some general info about the computer:General info: Model Name: iMac Model Identifier: iMac9,1 Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo Processor Speed: 2.93 GHz Number of Processors: 1 Total Number of Cores: 2 L2 Cache: 6 MB Memory: 4 GB Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz Graphics and Displays:Chipset Model:NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 Type:GPU Bus:PCIe PCIe Lane
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AppleTV 2, Mac OS X (10.7.3), 24-inch iMac, Early 2009
Will a Mid 2007 imac power supply work in a early 2008 imac.
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iMac, iOS 5
I use a mini display port to HDMI to get the video and i use audio Y cable splitter for the audio.i can get video but not sound. If i disconnect the HDMI cable from the T.V. then i can get sound. If the HDMI cable and the audio cables are connected at the same time i can get video but no sound. I called Sony and according to them there is no setting on the T.V. that would help. My theory is that it's some kind of setting in the imac that prevents it from sending audio and video to the tv at the same time. Unfortunately i have not been able to figure it out.
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iMac, Mac OS X (10.6.8)
early 2009 Intel iMac 24". OS 10.6.8.
Working in Excel today, I was highlighting groups of cells with color when the entire screen suddenly had a pale grey-green tint. Can still see colors beneath, but everything tinted (not just the Excel window, but the entire display). White, of course, is most dramatic. The Dell monitor beside it is fine.
I've recalibrated color a half dozen times (have always had to do that to get the Dell and iMac screens as similar as possible). It's impossible to get white on the Mac. Rebooted several times, including hard boot, zapped the PRam, ran Permissions Repair and Disk Repair from the startup CD. Installed Temperature Monitor to see if there's a heat problem, but I could not find normal temp values anywhere on the Web, so that was something of a bust. Temps attached below in case there's an educated set of eyes out there....
Ran some online tests, too, for color distortion, dead pixels, that kind of thing, but nothing reveled.
I've been all over the Web looking for some guidelines, but most posts at apple and elsewhere seem to focus on later-model iMacs with the yellow lower screen problem when new (It's not that) or panic screens of wild colors, stripes, and the like. This is just a grey-green tint that covers the entire screen, rendering whites grey-green and colors muddy.
Is this possible, and if so, presumably the displays - bottom levels of the glass will be at different heights?
View 1 Replies View RelatedThe ivy bridge processors are coming out soon (or may already be out). I have heard that macbook pro 13" models might be able to use the new processers due to their lower energy useage. I presume that I will be able to take my mac to an apple store and have it installed. Is this information true?
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MacBook Pro (13-inch Early 2011), Mac OS X (10.7.4)
I want to use FCP 10 on my early 2008 Mac Pro, can I replace my ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT 256 MB with an ATI Radeon HD5770 graphics card to facilitate this?
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Mac Pro (Early 2008), Mac OS X (10.7.3), FCP 10
Can anyone confirm that NO PCI cards will work in the mac pro PCI-E slots?
View 2 Replies View RelatedWill a normal PC 256 or 512MB 2600xt be ok as the only GFX card in a Early 2008 Mac Pro?
View 1 Replies View RelatedMy brand new 2.8 8-core mac pro arrived a couple of days ago, and needless to say its great..for the most part It's standard spec but with the 8800GT and the airport card.Although I use it with OSX for most things, I need to be running Vista for the odd bit of gaming, and more importantly for software development (still need Visual Studio and .NET)So i've installed Vista x64, installed the bootcamp drivers, and then updated the graphics to the latest Nvidia drivers
View 8 Replies View RelatedMy old Powerbook had an S-Video output that I used to connect to my TV. Since then I've bought a MBP, and recently I purchased a Samsung PN50B550T2F TV (My first HD... went a little overboard!).
I want to connect my MBP to it so that I can watch some online content: Southpark studios.
What's the best way to go about doing this? What kind of cables (audio/video) should I buy?
I am interested in connecting my early 2008 Mac Pro to my HD TV so that I can easily watch iTunes movies stored on the Mac Pro on the TV.
I know the Mac Pro has DVI video out and the TV has HDMI video in, and that there are adapters between the two. Will this be as easy as connecting my spare DVI port to an open HDMI port?
i got a MacPro 09 8 Cores and has no power, i tried taking it down to minimum configuration, I suspect the backboard to be the culprit. I'm an Apple Tech and work at a service center, I already ordered Power Supply and backboard.
Ive been reading that I can use a flathead screw driver to turn on computer by shorting two pads on the board.. i checked the service manual and says nothing on how to jump it, but that u can.. has anybody tried jumping the Mac Pro through the Pads?
Well I never thought about this happening anytime soon, but it did. The weird part is that the Windows partition still boots up and works fine. Should I go ahead and replace/upgrade the HD now or just reinstall OSX? I'm kind of thinking about upgrading...
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have an early 08 Mac Pro with an Nvidia 8800 GT and 10 gigs of ram. I want to upgrade for video editing as well as gaming. I game in PC as well. Is it true I have to buy official Mac video cards? That would be easier right, rather then dealing with flashing the cards and etc? Would the Ati 5770 be good enough or should I splurge for the 5870? Is the 5870 that much better that it's worth the extra 200 dollars? What do you guys think, since my comp is kinda old would the 5770 be a big enough jump? Also, is it easy to install these cards? Do I need tools? For bootcamp, how do I install the drivers for windows 7? Do I download and install the Ati drivers before I put the card in?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI think something might be wrong with the video card. The fan is very loud at all times and gets louder on flash or video sites. The fan speed is usually double the other fans.
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Mac Pro (Early 2009), Mac OS X (10.7.3)
Running a 2.4ghz Intel Core 2 Duo and currently 2gb 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM. It has 2 slots, whats the max I can put in? What type of RAM do I purchase and who has the best Price on same.
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Mac Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.3)
My system currenlty has 2GB.
Info:
MacBook
Pro, Mac
OS X (10.5)
I bought an used macbook pro early 2011 (i5 2.3) and its not charging. With the battery in it the green light doesnt turn on (doesnt charge at all). If I open the macbook and remove the battery the green light turns on and I can turn on the macbook.I have already bought a new battery and its not charging.Could it be the magsafe board? I am asking because the light goes on without battery so I thought that the magsafe board maybe is working.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have an 8 core 3.2GHz early 2008 machine - will it run snow leopard?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI recently got this Mac Pro (Model number A1186, EMC 2113) with two Quad Core 2.66 GHz Intel Xeon 5150 processors, 16GB of RAM (both RAM riser slots completely filled with 4x2GB sticks of 667MHz DDR2 ECC FB-DIMM each), 2x1TB clean HDDs, and an ATI Radeon HD4870 (512MB DDR5 memory) video card with 2 DVI ports and an S-video port. (I bought the HD4870 later after I found that the one that came with it, an ATI X1900 XT, was part of a recall [sadly this recall ended in 2011.] Plus, the fans on the X1900 were revving up REALLY loud.)The reason I'm posting here is because the darn thing will not "boot." The machine starts up fine (HDDs spin up, lights on the RAM risers illuminate momentarily, etc.), but there is no output out of either of the DVI ports. Not even a gray Apple screen. I have tried the DVI cord and the monitor on two different machines and they both work perfectly fine, and now I have no other Mac available to test the video card on. I'll just have to assume for now that it works. The video card, after the machine is turned on, has three of the four diagnostic LEDs lighted.
The ones that light up are D1601, D1602, and D1603; the other one, D603, does not light up. After some searching around on Google for a little while and sifting through forum after forum, they all seemed to agree upon the fact that these lights were from the two internal power cables (D1602 and D1603) not being plugged in and that there was a critical temperature error (D1601). Note that a) both power cables are in both power slots and hooked in securely and b) these lights turn on immediately after pressing the power button. A light tug from both ends on both cables assures that these cables are not going anywhere soon, and I doubt that there would be such a heating issue as soon as I press the power button, especially since all the fans are running fine. My first thought was that maybe the logic board wasn't getting enough power, but I have no idea on how to check this as almost everything besides the RAM risers and the extension slots are covered by something.Another problem I found is that some of the diagnostic LEDs that should be lighting up, aren't. Out of all the lights, the ones that do light up are the TRICKLE light and the EFI light. I guess it's good that the CPU lights aren't lighting up, but what about the the GPU and POWER lights? Shouldn't those be lighting up too?I also tried booting up from a Snow Leopard disc (there isn't any internal CD/DVD drive [the previous owner removed it for whatever reason], so I've been using an external CD/DVD drive).
When I plugged in my Apple USB keyboard, I decided to press the caps lock key and see if it would light up green. No dice. I tried all 5 USB ports on the machine and none of them worked. But how did the CD/DVD drive work? It spun up when I turned the machine on. So since the keyboard can't be recognized I am unable to boot from a CD, or anything else for that matter.One more issue: there is no startup chime! Tried turning it off and on many different times trying some potential solutions out and not once was there a startup chime. I know for sure this is a huge issue.reconfiguring the RAM (which I inserted per Apple's instructions), resetting the SMC, resetting the PRAM (which wouldn't have worked anyways since the keyboard isn't recognized), and resetting the NVRAM (which, again, probably wouldn't have worked since the keyboard isn't recognized.)So here are my problems.
Info:
Mac Pro
The HD of my early 2010 Mac Mini has broken again. I'm trying to decide whether to get it repaired, replace the Mac Mini or give up on Mac Mini's altogether (it's ruined my confidence in Apple). I have the Mac Mini placed on a shelf above the television and about a centimeter from a reasonably small speaker (the centre speaker in my audio setup). There is a reasonable space for cooling: no shelves above, 20 centimeters from the wall behind but little to no room left and right (never heard any strange noises from the fan though which suggest overheating). Could something around it be causing the HD to break (magnetism)? I don't want to get the HD repaired and have it break again next year. HD's are too expensive for that!
Info:
iMac, Mac OS X (10.7.2)